Sears

owners manual

MODEL NO.

113.299131

CAUTION:

Read SAFETY

RULES and

INSTRUCTIONS carefully

CRRFTSMRII

12-INCH MO TORIZED

FL OOR SAW

assembly

operating

repair parts

Read the owner's manual carefully. Learn its application and limitations as well as the specific potential hazards peculiar to this tool.

Safety goggles must comply with ANS Z87.1-1968.

Also use face or dust mask if cutting operation is dusty.

2.GROUND ALL TOOLS

This tool is equipped with an approved 3-conductor cord and a 3-prong grounding type plug to fit the proper grounding type receptacle. The green conductor in the cord is the grounding wire. Never connect the green wire to a live terminal.

3.KEEP GUARDS IN PLACE and in working order.

4.REMOVE ADJUSTING KEYS

AND WRENCHES

Form habit of checking to see that keys and adjusting wrenches are removed from tool before turning it on.

5.KEEP WORK AREA CLEAN

Cluttered areas and benches invite accidents. Floor must not be slippery due to wax or sawdust.

6.AVOID DANGEROUS ENVIRONMENT

Don't use power tools in damp or wet locations. Keep work area well lit. Provide adequate surrounding work space.

7, KEEP CHILDREN AWAY

All visitors should be kept a safe distance from work area.

8.MAKE WORKSHOP KID-PROOF

-with padlocks, master switches, or by removing starter keys.

9.DON'T FORCE TOOL

It will do the job better and safer at the rate for which it was designed.

10.USE RIGHT TOOL

Don't force tool or attachment to do a job it was not designed for.

11.WEAR PROPER APPAREL

No loose clothing, gloves, neckties or jewelry to get caught in moving parts. Rubber-soled footwear is recommended for best footing.

13.SECURE WORK

Use clamps or a vise to hold work when practical. It's safer than using your hand, frees both hands to operate tool.

14.DON'T OVERREACH

Keep proper footing and balance at all times.

15.MAINTAIN TOOLS WITH CARE

Keep tools sharp and clean for best and safest performance. Follow instructions for lubricating and changing accessories.

16.DISCONNECT TOOLS

before servicing; when changing accessories such as blades, bits, cutters, etc.

17.AVOID ACCIDENTAL STARTING

Make sure switch is in "OFF" position before plugging in.

18.USE RECOMMENDED ACCESSORIES

Consult the owner's manual for recommended accessories. Follow the instructions that accompany the accessories. The use of improper accessories may cause hazards.

19.NEVER STAND ON TOOL

Serious injury could occur if the tool is tipped or if the cutting tool is accidentally contacted.

Do not store materials above or near the tool such that it is necessary to stand on the tool to reach them.

20.CHECK DAMAGED PARTS

A guard or other part that is damaged should be properly repaired or replaced before further use of the tool.

Carefully check the repaired or new part to assure that it will operate properly and perform its intended function.

If power cord is worn or cut, or damaged in any way, have it replaced immediately.

WARNING: Do not connect power cord until the following steps have been satisfactorily completed:

a.READ CAREFULLY AND UNDERSTAND THE FOL- LOWING INSTRUCTIONS and the "SAFETY RULES

FOR POWER TOOLS" ON PAGE 2.

b.Examination and operating familiarity with ON-OFF switch, elevation control, bevel control, miter gauge, and rip fence.

CAUTION: Always disconnect the power cord when removing the table insert, changing the cutting tool, or making adjustments.

1.The saw should be bolted down if there is any tendency to tip over or move during normal operations. The saw table should be approximately 36-inches above the floor.

2.The saw work area should have adequate overhead, non-glare light and adequate surrounding work space.

3.The saw should be positioned so neither the operator nor a casual observer is forced to stand in line with the saw blade.

4.Kickbacks can cause Serious injury. A "kickback" occurs when a part of the workplece binds on the saw blade or binds between the saw blade and the rip fence or other fixed object, rises from the table, and is thrown toward the operator. Kickbacks are usually caused by one or more of the following conditions:

a.Failure to use a spreader when ripping, or failure to maintain the spreader.in alignment with the saw blade.

b.Improperly conditioned (dull) saw that permits the material to pinch on the out-feed edge of the saw and rise from the table.

c.Failure to determine that the rip fence and the saw blade are parallel to one another.

d.Ripping wood that has a twisted grain, does not have a straight edge to guide along the fence, or wood that is twisted or not flat (which may rock on the table and pinch the blade).

e.Confining the cut-off piece when ripping or cross- cutting.

f.Ripping by applying the feed force to the section of the workplece that will become the cut-off (free) piece (feed force when ripping should always be applied between the saw blade and the fence -- use push stick for narrow or short work).

g.Releasing workplece before operation is complete; not pushing the workpiece all the way past the saw blade.

5.Injury from kickbacks can be prevented or minimized by:

a.Avoiding any of the causes noted above;

b.Making sure by trial before starting the cut that the anti-kickback pawls will stop the kickback once it has started (sharpen all points if they do not);

c.Keeping your face and body always out of line of possible kickbacks, including turning the switch ON and OFF.

d.Always wearing safety goggles.

e.Never use both the rip fence and miter gauge dur- ing the same operation.

6.A large proportion of tilting arbor saw accidents is caused by dull, badly set, improperly filed cutting tools, by gum or resin adhering to cutting tools and by fence misallgnment (out of parallel) with the saw blade. Such conditions cause the material to stick, jam, stall the saw, or kick-back at the operator. Cracked saw blades should be discarded immediately. A saw blade can become cracked if it wobbles or if it is not in balance. NEVER

ATTEMPT TO FREEA STALLED SAW BLADE WITHOUT TURNING THE SAW OFF. Avoid potential injury by proper cutting tool and machine maintenance.

7.Gloves should not be worn while operating the saw. Loose flowing garments, jewelry (rings, wrist watches, etc.), and neckties should never be worn. Long sleeves should be rolled to above the elbows.

8.To protect your eyes, always wear safety goggles. In addition, wear a face shield to protect against flying particles. Ear protectors (ear plugs or muffs) should be used during extended periods of operation.

9.Provide proper support for the workpiece, based on its size and the type of operation to be performed; hold the work firmly against the gauge or guide. Use a push stick when ripping short work (under 6-inches long), or narrow work. A push block or miter gauge hold-down should be used when dadoing or molding.

10.Never use a length stop (such as the fence when cross- cutting) on the free end or edge of the workpiece. Never hang onto or touch the free end of workpiece, or a free piece that is cut off, while power is "ON" and/or the sawblade is rotating. In short, to guard against kick- backs or other potential accidents, the cut-off piece in any thru-sawing operation must never be confined -- it must be allowed to move laterally. Never use the rip fence when cross-cuftlng, or the miter gauge when ripping.

11.Cross-cutting operations are more conveniently worked and with greater safety if an auxiliary wood facing is attached to the miter gauge using the holes provided.

12.Do not leave a long board unsupported so the spring of the board causes it to shift on the table. A support should be used to catch the end of the board behind the blade.

13.Never climb on or near the saw. Serious injury could occur if the tool is tipped or if the cutting tool is acci-

dently contacted. Never leave the saw with power on, or before the cutting tool has come to a complete stop.

14.Avoid awkward operations and hand positions, where

a sudden slip could cause a hand to move into a saw blade or other cutting tool. Never reach in back of the cutting tool with either hand to hold down the work-

piece.

15.Make sure the top of the arbor or cutting tool rotates

toward you when standing in normal operating position. Also make sure the cutting tool, arbor collars and arbor

nut are installed properly. Keep the cutting tool as low as possible for the operation being performed. Keep all guards in place whenever possible.

16.Do not use any blade or other cutting tool marked for an operating speed in excess of the design speed of the saw. Never use a cutting tool larger in diameter than the diameter for which the saw was designed. For

greatest safety and efficiency when ripping, use the maximum diameter blade for which thesaw is designed,

since under these conditions the spreader is nearest the blade.

(Continued on Next Page)

17.Adjust table inserts flush with, or slightly below, the table top.

18.For operations which do not permit the use of a spread- er, serious consideration should be given to the use of

jigs or fixtures to hold the work so the hands of the op- erator are removed a safe distance from the point of operation.

19.The use of abrasive or cut-off wheels, or wire wheels can be dangerous and is not recommended. (Abrasive or cut-off wheels are ,used to saw many different ma- terials including metals, stone, and glass.)

20.Objects can be thrown upward toward the operator by the back of the blade if proper operating procedures are not followed. ?his usually occurs when a small loose piece of wood or other object works around to the rear of the revolving blade. It can usually be avoided by re- moving all loose pieces from the table immediately after they are cut off, using a long stick of wood, and by keeping the guard and spreader in place at all times. Use extra caution when the guard assembly is removed for dadoing or molding, and replace the guard as soon as that operation is completed.

21.Never perform any operation "freehand." This term means feeding the stock into the saw blade or other

cutting tool without using the miter gauge, rip fence, taper jig, or some other device which prevents rotating or twisting of the workpiece during the operation.

22.Never turn your saw "ON" before clearing the table of all objects (tools, scraps of wood, etc.) except the workpiece and related feed or support devices for the operation planned.

23.Safety is a combination of operator common sense and alertness at all times when the saw is being used.

24.Do not cycle the motor switch on and off rapidly, as this may cause the saw blade to loosen. In the event this should ever occur, allow the saw blade to come to a complete stop and retighten the arbor nut normally, not excessively.

WARNING: Do not allow familiarity

(gained from frequent use of your saw) to

become commonplace. Always remember that a careless fraction of a second is suf-

ficient to inflict severe injury.

Screwdriver (medium)

Screwdriver (small)

Pencil

TOOLS NEEDED

_ Square

I_ ]J (combination square,

NOTE: An arbor wrench and shaft wrench, for removing or installing the saw arbor nut, and all necessary hex-"L" wrenches are sup- plied with the saw. (Refer to the "'Loose Parts List.")

Figure 1

UNPACKING AND CHECKING CONTENTS

This Craftsman Motorized Floor Saw is shipped complete in one carton. In order to prevent damage during shipment and facilitate packaging, certain items are removed at the factory and must be assembled when receiyed by the pur- chaser. These "loose" parts are listed below and should be accounted for before discarding any packing material.

POWER SUPPLY AND MOTOR DATA

MOTOR SPECIFICATIONS

The AC motor used in this saw is a single voltage capacitor start capacitor run, non-reversible type, with the following specifications:

CAUTION: This saw is wired for operation on 240 volts only. Connect to a 15 ampere

branch circuit protected by a 15 ampere time delay or circuit saver fuse or circuit breaker.

WARNING: Do not permit fingers to con- tact the terminals of power or motor plugs when installing or removing the plug to or from a live power source. Hold the plug as shown in figure 3.

MOTOR SAFETY PROTECTION

The saw motor is equipped with a manual-reset thermal

overload protector, designed to open the power line circuit when the motor temperature exceeds a safe value. (See

figure 4.)

1.If the protector opens the line and stopsthe saw motor,

press the saw switch to the "OFF" position immediately and allow the motor to cool.

2.After cooling to a safe operating temperature, the over-

'EG

LING FOOT

NUTS, HEX.

/ iI -13x

// I''_ _ 3/4x5/16

END STIFFENER

I SIDE STIFFENER

Heavy loads, however, require that voltage at motor terminals be not less than the voltage specified on nameplate.

. Most motor troubles may be traced to loose or incorrect connections, overloading, reduced input voltage (which results when small size wires are used in the supply circuit) or when the supply circuit is extremely long. Always check connections, load and supply circuit when the motor fails to perform satisfactorily. Check wire sizes and lengths with the table in the next paragraph. Re- place or repair damaged or worn cord immediately.

WIRE SIZES

The use of any extension cord will cause some loss of power. To keep this to a minimum and to prevent over- heating and motor burn-out, use the table below to deter- mine the minimum wire size (A.W.G.) extension cord. All cords should be 3-wire, grounded.

NOTE: For circuits of greater length, the wire size must be increased proportionately in order to deliver ample voltage to the saw motor.

load protector can be closed manually by pushing in the red button on the motor terminal box cover. If the red

button will not snap into place immediately, the motor is still too hot and must be allowed to cool for a while

longer.

3.As soon as the red button will snap into running position, the saw may be started and operated normally by pulling the saw switch to the "'ON" position.

4.Frequent opening of fuses or circuit breakers may result if motor is overloaded, or if the motor circuit is fused with a fuse other than those recommended. Do not use

a fuse of greater capacity without consulting the power company.

5.Although the motor is designed for operation on the

voltage and frequency specified on motor nameplate, normal loads will be handled safely on voltages not more than 10% above or below the nameplate voltage.

ASSEMBLY AND ADJUSTMENTS

1.Remove the "'loose" parts; clean the parts and the basic saw assembly thoroughly. (See figure 1.) Items having a rust-preventive coating, (saw table, etc.) may be cleaned with a cloth saturated with kerosene. Wipe

other parts with a clean, dry cloth.

CAUTION: Before attempting to use the saw, assemble it as outlined in the follow-

ing instructions. All adjustments are care- fully checked prior to shipping the saw. However_ rough handling in transit may necessitate some readjustments.

2.Assemble the basic saw assembly and check all ad- justments as outlined in the following instructions:

a. Installation of Legs.

(1)With saw upside down, install legs and leg stif-

Figure 9

feners. (See figure 5.) Using parts from the correct loose parts bag, assemble the legs to the saw base with the sixteen 5/16-18x5/8 inch screws and 5/16-18 nuts. (See figure 6.) Leave these screws

loose in order to facilitate mounting the stiffeners. All four leg stiffeners are identical and since the distance on the sides is greater than the distance

on the ends, the leg stiffeners used on the sides should be attached at outer holes while the stiffeners at the ends should be attached at inner

holes. (See figure 6.)

(2)Assemble the four stiffeners with sixteen 1/4- 20 x 1/2 inch screws and 1/4-20 inch nuts. After

stiffeners are all in place, tighten all screws

securely. Install leveling feet, each with 2 1/2-13 x 3/4 x 5/16 hex nuts. (See figure 6.)

(3)Place the saw in an upright position on its legs.

b.Installation of Side Extensions.

(1)Install table extensions on each side of the table with four 5/16-18x 1-1/4 inch screws, 5/16-18 inch nuts and 5/16 inch Iockwashers in each

extension (See figure 7.) These extensions are provided with multiple holes on both sides (front and back) to make them adaptable to various

Figure 10

ii

table mountings. Position the extensions to the sides of the table so the four holes in the table

and the extensions are aligned when the table and extensions are correctly mated. An extension

rod support should be located under each end screw at left-hand side of the saw. (See figures

7 and 8.) Leave screws snug (not tight). Be sure to position the extension rod supports as shown in figure 8.

(2) Place a small steel scale across saw table edge and table extensions edge and, using the rubber

mallet, tap extensions slightly up or down (or forward and rearward) until the surface of each table extension is even with surface of table top

and front edge of table. (See figure 9.) Tighten nuts on all attaching bolts securely and recheck

to make sure tightening nuts did not permit ex- tension to move.

c.Installation of fence guide bar, rack and switch box support. (See figure 10.)

(1) Insert a 1/4-20 x 2 inch, slotted round-head screw through the center hole of guide bar and through

a spacer. The guide bar should be positioned so the scale faces upward, and is readable from the front of the saw. (See figure 10.)

4 3 2 1

4 /

SAW TABLESPACER GUIDE BAR

RACK

Figure 11

(2) Attach this assembly to the center hole in the table and secure the assembly with a 1/4 inch Iockwasher and I/4-20 inch hex nut. Do not

tighten the nut until all attaching screws are in position.

(3)Place each rack in position (as shown in figure

11)and insert a 1/4-20 x 2 inch slotted round head screw through the outside hole, through the

guide bar, spacer and table extension. Secure with a 1/4 inch Iockwasher and 1/4-20 inch hex

nut. (See figure 10.)

(4)Place switch box in position (either to right hand or left hand side of saw table as desired). Attach with two 1/4-20 x 2 inch slotted round head

screws through switch box mounting flange, rack, guide bar, spacer and table. Secure with two 1/4 inch Iockwashers and 1/4-20 inch hex nuts. (See figures 10 and 11.)

(5)Complete attachment of opposlte rack with two more screws, aligned with table in the same

sequence described above. Tighten all screws securely.

d.Installation of Auxiliary Fence and Extension. (See figure 12.)

NOTE: This adjustable, auxiliary fence and ex- tension was designed for use on the left-hand side of the saw (when facing the saw at oper- ator's position).

(1)Attach the table extension support (1, figure 12) to outside edge of left-hand table extension with

5

4

Figure 12

two 5/16-18 x 3/4 inch screws (5), 5/16-18 inch nuts and 5/16 inch Iockwashers in position as shown in figure 12. Do not tighten the screws fully.

(2)Slide the extension slide rod (2) through each rod support (3) and through the hole in each end

of the support (I). It will be necessary to slide these rods from under the table because of the

retaining rings.

(3)Attach the sliding extension (9) to each rod (2) with a 5/16-18 x 3/4 inch screw (5) and 5/16 inch

Iockwasher in the end of each rod. Do not tighten. This extension should be positioned as shown in figure 12.

(4)Move the end of sliding extension in. Level the sliding extension (9) with the table extension. Tighten 5/16-18 x 3/4 screws (5) in the extension slide rods (2). Move sliding extension out and tighten 5/16-18 x 3/4 screws (5) attaching the support (1) to the extension. If binding is experi- enced, tap the rod supports (3) in the proper direction to relieve interference.

(5)Position an extension clamp (7) over each rod and through the mating hole in support (1). Secure each extension clamp with a wing nut (8).

(6)Attach the auxiliary fence (6) with the wing nuts (8), as shown in figure 12.

e.Adjust the Table Insert. (See figures 13 and 14.)

(1)Press down on table insertwith fingers to make sure it is properly secured in the table opening.

(2)Using a small scale or straightedge, check at

each of the four set screw positions to determine if the table insert is even with saw table surface.

(See figure 13.) If uneveness exists, adjust as follows:

(a)If an adjustment is necessary, rotate each of the four set screws (or as many as required) with a 3/32 inch hex-"L'" wrench until table and insert surfaces are even. (See figure 14.)

(b)Make sure that ends of all four set screws are making contact with table recess by pressing on the insert at each set screw location. If the

insert "rocks" when pressed at any of the four screw locations, adjust set screws until

the "'rocking" is eliminated.

3.Adjust the 90 ?? and 45 ?? Stops.

a. Checking and Adjusting the 0 ?? Position

(1)Loosen the elevation lock by pulling out the elevation lock knob and rotate the elevation crank

to raise the saw blade to the deepest cut position.

(See figure 15.) Push elevation lock in.

(2)Loosen the clamp knob and rotate the tilt crank counterclockwise until it will rotate no farther.

(3)With the saw blade in position described above,

tighten the clamp knob to secure the tilt mech- anism.

(4)Place a square on the saw table and against saw blade. (See figure 16.) The blade should be at 90

degrees (perpendicular) to the table top surface.

(5)If the blade is not square with the table top, loosen

the clamp knob (figure 15) and rotate the tilt crank to move the mechanism off the 90 ?? stop. This can be accomplished by rotating the tilt crank until the pointer on tilt scale indicates approxi- mately 10 degrees. Rotate the 90 ?? stop screw in table top with a 3/16-inch hex-"L" wrench to produce an approximate correction. (See figure 17.) Rotate the tilt crank until the saw blade is stopped by the 90 ?? stop screw and recheck with the square for an exact 90 ?? position of the saw blade. Continue these trial settings until the saw blade stops at exactly 90 ?? with the table top.

FLEVATIOI_KNOB

CRANK

TILT CRANK-

-----C.

-LEVATION

.OCK KNOB

Figure 15

Figure 16

/

STOPSCREW 45??

STOPSCRE_

Figure 17

(6)When the saw blade is adjusted squarely with the table top, check the pointer on the tilt gauge, which should be positioned at exactly "0" (zero) degrees. (See figure 15.) If not at zero, loosen the attaching screw and align pointer with the "0" mark, then tighten the screw.

(1)Loosen the clamp knob and rotate the tilt crank clockwise until it will turn no farther. Tighten the clamp knob. At this point, the acute angle made between the saw blade and table top should be 45 degrees. (See figure 18.) The base of a com- bination square (or protractor) can be used effec- tively for this measurement.

(2)If the angle between the saw blade and table top is not 45 ??, loosen the clamp knob and rotate the tilt crank counterclockwise until the pointer on tilt gauge indicates approximately 40 ?? . Rotate the 45 ?? stop screw in table top with a 3/16-inch hex-"L" wrench to produce an approximate cor- rection. (See figure 17.) Rotate the tilt crank until the. saw blade is stopped by the 45 ?? stop screw and recheck for the exact 45 ?? blade position. Continue these trial settings until the saw blade stops at exactly 45 ?? with the table top.

NOTE: If the above adjustments have been 'per- formed accurately, the saw will now have a positive stop at "'0" (90 ?? position) and "45" degrees. The pointer on the tilt scale should indicate both positions accurately.

4.Aligning Saw Blade With Table Top.

a. Remove the table insert and check the saw arbor

nut to make sure it is tight. Use the shaft wrench on arbor flats and arbor wrench on the arbor nut, as

shown in figure 19. Install the table insert.

the elevating mechanism and, using the elevation crank, position the saw blade for the deepest cut in preparation for aligning the saw blade with table grooves. Push in on the elevation lock knob.

c.Loosenthe clamp knob, and rotate the tilt crank clock- wise until it stops(pointer at 0??). (See figure 20.) This will position the saw blade vertically. Tighten the clamp knob.

d.Make a pencil mark on the saw tooth that is just above the table top at rear of the blade. (See figure 21.)

e.Place the miter gauge in the table groove at left of saw blade. Make sure the miter gauge is set at "0".

f.Lay a soft-lead pencil in the depression just ahead of the miter gauge scale, with the pencil point toward the blade. (See figure 21.) Hold the pencil in the depression with thumb of left hand as shown in fig- ure 21.

g.Slide the miter gauge to a position which will point the pencil at the marked saw tooth. Hold a small scale against the marked tooth and slide the pencil

toward the saw until the point rests against the scale. With the left thumb, hold the pencil securely in the

miter gauge head. It must not move.

h.With the right hand, remove the scale and rotate the saw blade until the marked tooth is just above the saw table at the front. (See figure 22.)

i.Slide the miter gauge toward the front of saw table until the pencil is pointing toward the marked tooth.

Insert the scale between the pencil point and blade, as shown in figure 22. If the saw is parallel to the table groove, the scale will just "slide" into the gap between the pencil point and blade. If the scale will not enter this gap, or is loose in the check shown in figure 22, an adjustment of the table trunnlons is required. Proceed as follows:

(1)Tighten the clamp knob firmly (figure 20) and loosen the two screws which secure each table

trunnion (front and rear) to the table. (See figure 23.) It will be necessary to reach these screws from underneath the table.

(2)Shift the two trunnlons until the preceding meas- urements are equal and tighten all four trunnion screws. Recheck measurements (figures 21 and

22)to make sure tightening the screws did not alter the setting.

5. Check and Adjust Rip Fence

Your Craftsman Rip Fence has been designed to provide accuracy, reliability and long life. In order for your fence to work properly it is imperative that it be adjusted accurately. The fence is adjusted at the factory, but due to shipping hazards and slight tolerance build-up be- tween individual saws, it is sometimes necessary that your fence be adjusted to your particular saw. Therefore,

check your fence and adjust it (if necessary) as outlined in the instructions that follow:

CAUTION: It is imperative that these in- structions be followed precisely, as an in- correct adjustment could damage the fence and the fence guide bar attached to your

saw.

a.Installation of Rip Fence

(1)Raise the lock handle and position the rip fence (10, figure 1) on the saw table. Do not latch the lock handle.

(2)Slide the rip fence along the guide bar while watching the clearance between lower edge of

fence and table top. If any portion of the fence

(except sliding pad at rear) drags on table top, or if clearance between fence and table top

varies appreciably as the fence is moved, the guide bar must be readjusted. This is accom- plished by loosening the attaching screws (figure

10)and re-positioning the bar until a consistent clearance exists over entire top surface of the table.

(3)Check for proper engagement (mesh) of teeth on fence adjusting shaft pinion with the gear teeth on underside of rack. (See figure 24.) The pinion

should be adjusted up or down so that teeth are in full contact lengthwise. This adjustment is made as follows:

(4)Push the fence adjusting knob all the way down and look underneath the rack to determine if

pinion and rack teeth are aligned. (See figure 24.) If the pinion extends too far (or not far enough) loosen the set screw (1, figure 25) with a 1/8 inch hex-"L" wrench and slide the knob

@

Figure 23

inn

Figure 24

2

Figure 26

DOWN

TO LOCK

Figure 27

FENCE PAWL

Figure 28

Figure 29

assembly (2) on the pinion shaft to achieve proper alignment. Tighten the set screw (1) with a 1/8 inch hex-"L" wrench.

(5)To adjust for correct gear mesh (depth of tooth contact), loosen the set screw (3, figure 25) with a 1/8 inch hex-"L" wrench and rotate the eccen- tric (4) until proper mesh is obtained. Tighten the set screw (3) after adjusting and check for proper operation at various points along the rack.

(6)Move the rip fence carefully across the central portion of table, by rotating the gear knob, to determine if the teeth engage the rack properly at the center division. The fence should pass over the center division of the rack smoothly. If any binding or resistance is noticed it may be neces- sary to loosen the guide bar attaching screws at one end and at the middle, and shift the rack

enough to properly space the teeth at the center

division. Several trials may be necessary.

b. Checking for Parallelism of Rip Fence with Table Groove.

(1)With the lock handle not latched, slide the fence on the saw table so the front edge of the channel is flush with the side of one of the two miter grooves. (See figure 26.) This can be checked by using your fingers as shown to "feel" for correct alignment. Shift the rear of the fence to the right or left slightly, causing fence not to be squcre with the front edge of the table nor pr_allel to the miter groove.

(2)Push down on the lock handle carefully (do not force) while watching the rear of the fence for its correcting action.

CAUTION: Do not force the lack handle. If

the handle does not lock down readily, an adjustment is necessary-and to force it could cause damage to both the fence and and guide bar.

(3)The lock handle should lock in the down position. Do not force the handle, as it is not necessary for the handle to be all the way down to lock the fence. (See figure 27.) The rear of the fence should move to correct itself, and do so parallel (flush) with the miter groove in saw table through- out its full length. Alignment may be checked with the forefingers to determine if the fence is flush with the side of miter groove, as shown in figures 26 and 27.

(4)If the lock handle responded as described above, and the fence aligned itself with the table groove at both ends, the fence is properly adjusted and no further attention is necessary. If not, perform the following adjustment routine.

???. Adjusting the Rip Fence

(1)Remove the fence and turn it over. Then, with a

1/8 inch hex-"L '??wrench, loosen the pawl set screw (located just behind the fence pawl) ap- proximately two turns. (See figure 28.)

Figure

(2) Using a 5/32 inch hex-"L'" wrench, loosen the

set screw at the rear of the fence approximately two turns. (See figure 29.) This screw is located in the fence lock just inside the channel as shown.

(3)Place the fence back on saw table and notice that the lock handle offers no resistance at any position.

(4)Push the lock handle down in "locked" position and, using a 1/8 inch hex-"L" wrench inserted into the fence pawl set screw from underneath the saw table, tighten the set screw finger tight. (See figure 30.) Do not use wrench or pliers--finger tight only.

(5)Raise the lock handle, push the fence to one side (off square) at the rear. Then lock the fence with the lock handle, while watching to make sure it

"'corrects" itself. Repeat this operation two or more times. The fence should "'correct'" itself each time it is locked.

(6)Raise the lock handle and align the fence with the miter groove (at the front end of the groove) as shown in figure 26. Push the lock handle down.

(7)Check for correct alignment with saw table groove for the full length of the fence. If it is aligned at the front but out of alignment at the rear, loosen the two hex-head screws on top of the channel near the front (figure 31) and tap the channel at the rear with one hand until it is aligned with the table groove. Tighten the two hex-head screws securely and recheck. More than one trial may be required, as tightening the screws may change the setting slightly.

(8)Check for "automatic correcting" by releasing the lock lever, shifting the fence off square at the rear, then locking it. The fence should square

itself automatically and be flush (parallel) with

the miter groove each time the handle is locked down.

(9) Lock the fence with the lock handle, using a 5/32 inch hex-"L" wrench, tighten the fence lock set screw at the rear, hand tight only. (See figure

SCALE

(WITH MIRROR SURFACE)

WINDOW

REFLECTED IMAGE

29.) Check to see if rear of fence is "secure" to the table at the rear.

NOTE: If the fence fails to square itself every-

time, check for any burr or foreign material on the surface of the fence head where it contacts

the saw table. Also check for nicks or burrs in

edges of saw table. Stone off any irregularities on these surfaces.

(10)After adjusting the fence on the saw table, move it to one of the table extensions and re-check the

adjustment, as even the slightest difference in length between the extensions and saw table would affect the fence adjustment to some degree. If one is slightly shorter than the other it would be evidenced by a lighter "feel" of the fence lever when locking it. If a difference in "feel" is apparent, readjust the fence on the shorter mem- ber and it will, in turn, lock effectively on the longer member.

d.Aligning Rip Fence Plastic Indicators

(1)If for any reason the tilt handle has been rotated during preceding operations, loosen the clamp knob (figure 20) and rotate the tilt crank clock- wise until it stops (tilt pointer at "0"). Tighten the clamp knob.

(2)Position the rip fence on the right-hand side of the saw blade with the fence channel one-inch from the blade and lock the fence. Be sure to use one of the teeth bent (set) to the right of blade. Measure from this to the fence, since this

determines your width of cut. This distance should be measured accurately with a scale.

(3)Set the right-hand indicator (a scribed line in

the plastic window) to "1" inch on the gulde-bar scale. This is accomplished as follows:

(a)A close look will show a reflection of the indicator line on the mirror surface of the

guide-bar scale. In order to make sure that you are sighting squarely above the scale, move your eye until the indicator line and its reflected image coincide. (See figure 32.)

INDICATOR LINE

IN PLASTIC WINDOW

a.Checking the Miter Gauge

(1)Loosen the lock handle and push the stop pin firmly into the middle detent ("0'"position on the scale.) The stop pin will be seated more effec- tively if it is rotated slightly as it is being "'pushed'"

Figure 33

SCREWS

into the detent. Tighten the lock handle. (See figure 34.)

NOTE: Always tighten the lock handle hand- tight only. Do not use a wrench on the lock handle.

(2) Using a combination square, check for an exact

LOCK HANDLE

STOP

PIN

SQUARE

Figure 34

(b) If an adjustment is required, loosen the two screws (one at each end of the window) and

shift the plastic window until the indicator line is aligned with the "'1" inch line on the scale. (See figure 33.) Tighten the two screws and recheck for accuracy. If the plastic window cannot be shifted enough to provide this align- merit, loosen the screws that secure the guide- bar scale to the guide-bar at its ends, shift the scale slightly and tighten the screws. Then

proceed to adjust the plastic window as de- scribed above.

(c)When the fence is correctly adjusted and moved to any position at the right of the saw blade, the scale will indicate the width of the desired cut. Make several trial settings and

check by measuring with a scale from the fence to the blade.

NOTE: When properly adjusted, the indicators may be used for most operations, thus elim- inating the need for actual measurements except for extreme requirements. When sighting the indicator, always use the system shown in figure 32 in order to make sure the sight angle is correct.

(d)Move the fence to the left-hand side of saw blade and adjust the left-hand indicator. (right-hand side) in the same manner as for the right-hand indicator.

NOTE: Remember, if the guide-bar scale must be moved when adjusting the left indicator, it will change the settings just made on the right- hand indicator and necessitate a readjustment.

6. Check and Adjust the Miter Gauge

NOTE: This gauge was set correctly at the fac- tory, but rough handling during shipping might have disturbed the setting. To assure maximum

accuracy the "0 ????(zero) degree stop should be checked and adjusted (if required) as follows:

90-degree angle between the miter gauge and rod assembly. If this measurement is exactly 90 degrees, the adjustment has not been disturbed and the gauge is ready for use. If not accurate at 90 ??, adjust the gauge as follows:

b.Adjusting the Miter Gauge

(1)Loosen the lock handle, disengage stop pin, hold

the square solidly against the rod assembly and face, then tighten the lock handle firmly by hand.

Recheck to make sure that tightening the lock handle did not alter the setting. Remove the square from the gauge.

(2)Loosen the two screws that attach the indicator block to the rod assembly. Shift the indicator block until the stop pin can be pushed solidly into its detent. Hold the indicator block aligned with

the rod assembly and the stop pin seated firmly in the detent and tighten the two screws.

(3)Loosen the lock handle and recheck for accuracy with the square. (Make certain the stop pin is fully seated.) Tighten the lock handle and readjust if necessary.

(4)After completing the above adjustment, loosen the pointer attaching screw, set pointer at "0" (zero) and tighten the screw.

NOTE: Detents at the two 45-degree positions are jig bored. When the gauge is adjusted for a 90-degree cut, the 45-degree positions are correct.

7.Install and Adjust the Saw Guard Assembly.

Position the saw blade for deepest cut and against the 90 ?? stop, (square with table top).

The guard assembly (8, figure 1) consists of a clear plastic blade guard, spreader and anti-kickback. The spreader must be aligned with the saw blade, which is accomplished as follows:

a.Installatlan af Saw Guard Assembly. (See figures 35 and 36.)

(1)Loosenthe lock handle on spreader support, slide the lower end of the spreader support on the

spreader rod (attached to end of spreader bar). (See figures 35 and 36.)

(2)Push the spreader support onto the spreader rod until the groove in spreader support is snug against the groove pin. Tighten the lock handle. (See figure 36.)

b.Alignment af Saw Guard Assembly. (See figures 35 and 36.)

(1)Raisethe plastic guard up to expose the spreader.

(2)Place a square against the spreader and saw table top. (See figure 36.) If the spreader bar is not positioned at 90 ?? with the table, loosen the two clamping screws (figure 35) and rotate the spreader bar until the spreader is square with the table (figure 36.) Tighten the two clamp- ing screws (figure 35) and recheck to make sure tightening the screws did not change the adjust- ment. More than one trial may be required.

(3)Sight along the spreader and saw blade to check'

for alignmenl;. An alternate method is to hold a straightedge against each side of saw blade and notice whether or not the spreader is centered in the gap thus formed between the straightedges.

(4)If the spreader is too far to the right or left, loosen the hex-head set screw in outer end of spreader bar and slide the spreader rod in or out of the hole in the spreader bar until correct alignment is obtained.

(5)Rotate the plastic guard down into operating position.

(6)For safety and to minimize kickbacks, the blade guard and spreader must always be in place for all thru-sawing operations. The spreader must

always be kept in proper alignment with the saw blade so the spreader doesn't prevent pushing the work past the blade. The blade guard will help to prevent sawdust and splinters from being thrown upward.

(7)To remove the blade guard and spreader, loosen the lock handle and slide it off. Do not disturb

the spreader rod.

CAUTION: Use extra care whenever the blade guard is removed far operations in- cluding Dado and Molding.

8.Adjust the Exact-I-Cut Indicator.

(See figures 37 and 38.)

The cut indicator ("Exact-I-Cut") located a few inches ahead of the saw blade, enables the operator to deter-

mine precisely where the cut in a particular board will occur, provided the cut indicator shoes have been cor-

rectly positioned. It should be checked and adjusted (if necessary) as follows:

a.Position the saw blade in the 90 ?? position (0 ?? on

tilt scale), by loosening the clamp knob and rotating the tilt crank counterclockwise until it will rotate no

farther. Tighten the clamp knob.

b.With the saw running, place a straight board (pref- erably hardwood) against the miter gauge and hold it securely in the miter gauge.

c.Make a small cut and pull the miter gauge back until

the cut is directly on the "Exact-I-Cut". (See figure 37.) If both cut-indicator shoes are aligned with the edges of the cut, no adjustment is required. If not aligned, loosen the two socket, fiat-head screws with a 1/16 inch hex-"L'"wrench and slide the cut indi- cator shoes laterally until the edge of each shoe is aligned with its respective edge of the cut in the board. (See figure 38.) Tighten both screws and recheck for accuracy of the adjustment.

GUARD "_ _,,_ ';AK.wCLKsBAC

SAWTABLE9oo 111"

SPREADER : lib :

ROD SETI _SPREADERSUPPORT

\SCREWl I/

LI SPREA??ERR??D

SPREADER J::_(-.'l_: i_,[_;'P

K.ANOLE

GROOVE PIN -

VIEW FROM REAR OF SAW

Figure 36

WIDTH OF CUT'-P"

CUT-INDICATOR SHOES

Figure 38

OPERATING CONTROLS

Before operating the saw, the operator should examine all controls until thoroughly familiar with their functions, as well as making sure that controls are operating properly.

(See figure 39.)

CAUTION: Under no circumstances should

a blade with a diameter greater than 12 inches be used with this saw.

1. Elevation Crank (li figure 39i. Located on the front panel to control elevation of the saw blade,

2.Elevation Lock (2, figure 39). Located on front panel for securing the saw in desired elevated position. It is pushed in to lock and pulled out to release.

3.Tilt Crank (3, figure 39). Located on front panel be- hind the elevation crank to control the angle of tilt.

The saw blade can be tilted from 0 ?? to 45 ??, as indi- cated on the TILT SCALE (5). If the angle of cut (tilt) must be extremely accurate, the angle of the saw blade should be checked wffh a protractor, or with a board known to be cut at the exact angle required.

4. Clamp Knob (4, figure 39.) Located on front panel to lock the tilt mechanism in any desired position. The tilt

mechanism should always be locked before starffng work and should always be unlocked before attempt-

ing to change the angle of tilt.

5.ON-OFF Switch and Key (6, figure 39). This unique switch is mounted in a switch box which is attached to

the underside of saw table as shown in figure 39. To

turn the switch on, the operator inserts the key (figure 40) and hooks the forefinger of the right hand under the end of switch lever and pulls downward. The switch is turned off by simply pressing upward on the switch lever. When removing the key (figure 41), always hold

the thumb or finger against end of switch lever to pre-

vent the switch from being turned on as the key is re- moved.

6. Rip Fence (1, figure 42). When the lock handle (2,

figure 42) is released (raised), the rip fence (1) may be moved toward, or away from, the saw by hand.

Pushing the lock handle (2) down into locked position will automatically align the rip fence parallel to the table groove. This alignment correction will occur at the front of saw table. Therefore, it may be necessary

to make more than one setting in order to produce the exacf distance desired between saw blade and fence.

Keep the saw table and rip fence clean, as saw dust may prevent the fence from assuming proper align- ment when tightened.

7. Lock Handle (2, figure 42). This handle is used to

clamp the rip fence in place after it has been moved to the desired position. (Refer to preceding step 6.)

8.Fence Knob (3, figure 42). This knob (when depressed) moves a pinion into engagement with the rack teeth to permit accurate positioning of the rip fence.

9.Miter Gauge (4, figure 42). This gauge is used in table grooves as a guide for the work-piece when the rip fence is not used. The angle of the gauge can be adjust- ed by loosening the clamp handle (5) and positioning the gauge as indicated by the dial and pointer on the miter gauge (4).

10.Sliding Table Extension (6, figure 42). This extension permits a greatly extended work area and provides an

outboard fence for handling such items as table tops, doors, etc. Loosen wing nut (7) to adjust the extension. Loosen wing nut (8) to raise or lower the auxiliary fence.

11."'Exact-I-Cut" (9, figure 42). Inserted into the saw table just ahead of the saw blade is a cut indicator shoe,

commonly called an "Exact-I-Cut". When properly adjusted, the cut indicator shows the operator exactly where the edge of the cut will occur at either s_de of the saw blade.

1 \

3

2

Figure 42

4

maintenance

ELEVATION

LOCK KNOB

TILT WORM

LOCK WRENCH

MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION

This Craftsman Saw is a fine machine and should be given the best of care. If kept clean and properly lubricated, it will provide many years of trouble-free service. The follow- ing instructions should be carefully observed at all times.

1.Tilt worm, elevating worm and gears are covered with. grease at the factory and should be checked occasionally for proper lubrication.

Clean the worm and gear teeth with kerosene or similar solvent and repack lightly with cup grease or automo- tive chassis lubricant. (See figure 43.)

2.The saw motor bearings have been packed at the factory with proper lubricant and require no additional lubrica- tion. Other parts requiring lubrication should be oiled frequently with SAE No. 20 or No. 30 engine oil. The following parts should be lubricated regularly. (Refer to exploded view drawing for the following locations, if not apparent.)

a.Table trunnions.

b.Elevation shaft directly behind elevation hand wheel. c. Clamp screw.

3.All points where friction exists between two or more moving surfaces, or where a slip fit is necessary for

i

adjustment purposes, should be oiled occasionally.

4.If the saw is to be left standing for some time, particu-

larly in damp climates, the table top surface should be coated with light engine oil or Sears "Stop Rust". Either

material may be easily wiped off with a cloth before using the saw. Treat any unpainted parts and surfaces

with Sears "Stop Rust". ("Stop Rust" is available at any Sears Retail Stores or Catalog Order House.)

NOTE: The aluminum table extensions may be

adequately protected by applying a heavy coat of automobile or furniture wax. The wax

also enables boards to slide more easily across the table extensions.

5.Attention should be given to moving parts in the rip

fence and miter gauge, to keep them clean and lubri- cated.

6.After extended use, slight wear may cause the elevation

lock to slip and an adjustment is required. Remove the screw that holds the lock wrench and shift the wrench

to a different hole. (See figure 43.) If the holes do not provide enough adjustment, remove the lock wrench and re-position it on the hex nut. The adjustment is correct when it is securely locked with the elevation lock knob approximately one-inch away from the front panel.

and were

proper operating

DOWN CLAMP

Figure 44

RODS

procedures

CROSSCUTTI NG

CROSSCUTTING is known as cutting wood across the

grain, at 90 ??, or square with both the edge and the flat side of the wood. This is done with the miter gage set at "'0".

The miter gage may be used in either of the grooves in the table. Make sure it is locked.

When using the miter gage in the LEFT hand groove, hold the workpiece firmly against the miter gage head with your left hand, and grip the lock handle with your right ... or use Hold-Down Clamp (Optional Accessory) (See figure 44.)

When using the RIGHT hand groove, hold the workpiece with your right hand and the Iockhandle with your left hand.

REPETITIVE CUTTING

Figure 45

BLOCK

\

Figure 47

REPETITIVE CUTTING is known as cutting a quantity of pieces the same length without having to mark each piece.

Use the Stop Rods (Optional Accessory) for cutting pieces 6 inches long or longer. (See figure 45.)

When making repetitive cuts shorter than 6 inches, DO

NOT USE THE RIP FENCE AS A LENGTH STOP ...

BECAUSE THE CUT OFF PIECE COULD BIND

BETWEEN THE FENCE AND BLADE AND CAUSE A

KICKBACK.

ALWAYS clamp a block of wood at least 2 inches thick and 3 inches long to the table to act as a length stop. (See figure 46.)

1.Slide the workpiece along the miter gage until it touches the block ... hold it securely or clamp it with the

Hold-Down Clamp (Optional Accessory),

2.Make the cut ... pull the workpiece back ... push the cut off pieces off the table with a long push stick ..,

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PICK THEM UP AS THIS

COULD ENDANGER YOUR HANDS.

MITER CUTTING

MITER CUTTING is known as cutting wood at an angle

other than 90 ?? with the edge of the wood. Follow the same procedure as you would for crosscutting.

Adjust the miter gage to the desired angle, and lock it.

The miter gage may be used in either of the grooves in the table,

When using the miter gage in the LEFT hand groove, hold the workpiece firmly against the miter gage head with your left hand. nnd grip the leek handle with your right ... or use Hold-Down Clamp (Optional Accessory). (See figur0 47.)

When using the RIGHT hand groove, hold the workpiece with your right hand and the Iockhandle with your left hand.

BEVELCROSSCUTTING

BEVEL CROSSCUTTING is the same as crosscutting except that the wood is also cut at an angle . ???. other than g0 degrees with the flat side of the wood.

Adjust the blade to the desired angle.

Use the miter gage in the groove to the RIGHT of the blade ???.. NEVER TO THE LEFT. Hold the workpiece with your right hand and the Iockhandle with your left hand ... or use Hold-Down Clamp (Optional Accessory), (See figure

48).

COMPOUND MITER CUTTING

Compound miter cutting is a combination of miter cutting and bevel crosscutting. The cut is made at an angle other than 90 degrees to both the edg_ and the flat side of the wood.

Adjust the miter gage and the blade to the desired angle

???..make sure miter gage is locked.

Use the miter gagein the groove to the RIGHT of the blade ???.. NEVER TO THE LEFT. Hold the workpiece with your right hand and the Iockhandle with your left hand ... or use Hold-Down Clamp (Optional Accessory).

RIPPING, BEVEL RIPPING, RESAWING AND RABBETING (along the edge of a workpiece) are performed using the RIP FENCE together with AUXILIARY deviceswhen required.

WARNING: FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, ALWAYS

OBSERVE THE FOLLOWING SAFETY PRECAUTIONS.

1.Never make these cuts FREEHAND (without using the rip fence or auxiliary devices when required) because the blade could bind in the cut and cause a

KICKBACK.

2.Always lock the rip fence securely when in use.

3.Remove miter gage from table.

4.Make sure blade guard is installed for all rip type cuts. Replace the guard IMMEDIATELY following completion of resawing, rabbeting, dadoing, or molding operations.

Frequently check the action of the ANTI-KICKBACK PAWLS by passing the workpiece alongside of the spreader while saw is OFF.

Pull the workpiece TOWARD you. If the PAWLS do not DIG into the workpiece and HOLD it ... the pawls must be SHARPENED. Refer to "Maintenance" section further on in this manual.

5.Have blade extend approximately 1/8 inch above top of

workpiece. Additional blade exposure could be hazardous.

6.Do not stand directly in front of the blade in case of a KICKBACK. Stand to either side of the blade.

7.Keep your hands clear of the blade and out of the path of the blade.

B.If the blade stalls or stops while cutting, TURN SWITCH OFF before attempting to free the blade.

2X4 HANDLE

Figure 50

g.Do not reach over or behind the blade to pull the workpiece through the cut ... to support long or heavy workpieces ... to remove small cut-off pieces of material or FOR ANY OTHER REASON.

10.Do not pick up small pieces of cut-off material from the table. REMOVE them by pushing them OFF the table with a long stick. Otherwise they could be thrown back at you by the rear of the blade.

11.Do not remove small pieces of cut-off material that may become TRAPPED inside the blade guard while the saw is RUNNING. THIS COULD ENDANGER YOUR

HANDS or cause a KICKBACK.

Turn the saw OFF ... lift the guard and remove the piece.

Certain ripping cuts require the use of Auxiliary Devices.

Learn to know WHEN and HOW to use these devices for NARROW ripping. You can make them from scraps of wood.

PUSH STICK

Make one using a small piece of 1 x 2. (See figure 49.)

AUXILIARY FENCE/PUSH BLOCK

Make one using a piece of 3/8 inch plywood and a small piece of 2 x 4. (See figure 50.)

ALWAYS SUPPORT

WORKPIECES

Figure 51

WOR K SUPPORT

Use a "saw horse" ,.. and a piece of plywood. (See figure

51.)

When "WIDTH OF RIP" is 6 inches and WIDER use your RIGHT hand to feed the workpiece until it is clear of the table. (See figure 52.)

Use LEFT hand ONLY to guide the workpiece ... do not

FEED the workpiece with the left hand.

When "WIDTH of RIP" is 2 inches to 6 inches wide USE

THE PUSH STICK to feed the work. (See figure 53.)

When WIDTH of RIP is NARROWER than 2 inches, the push stick CANNOT be used because the guard will INTERFERE ... USE the AUXILIARY FENCE/PUSH BLOCK. (See figure 54.)

NARROW RIPPING - SHORT PIECES - UP TO 18"

Position the AUXILIARY FENCE to the desired WIDTH

OF RIP . .. lock RIP FENCE in place.

Hold workpiece against AUXILIARY FENCE ... feed with RIGHT hand ... guide with LEFT hand until clear of table. (See figure 55.)

NARROW RIPPING - LONG PIECES - 18" and

LONGER

Position the AUXILIARY FENCE with handle against the table to the desired WIDTH of RIP ... lock fence in place. (See figure 56.)

Figure 54

I

Figure 56

HANDLE AGAINST

TABLE

EvENW'TH,AOLE

Figure 58

Hold workpiece against auxiliary fence and feed with left hand until workpiece is about EVEN with END of table

???..Stop Feeding. (See figure 57.)

Hold workpiece FIRMLY ... turn AUXILIARY FENCE over ... (See figure 58.)

Hold workpiece against AUXILIARY FENCE ... feed with RIGHT Hand ... guide with LEFT hand until clear of table. (See figure 59).

When ripping thin strips that may enter the guard and strike the baffle. CAREFULLY raise guard only enough to clear the workpiece. (See figure 60 and 61.)

RESAWING

RESAWING is known as ripping a piece of wood through its thickness. To RESAW a piece of wood wider than 2-1/8 inch ... it will be necessary to remove the blade guard ...

and use an AUXI LIARY FENCE which you can make.

Do not attempt to resaw BOWED or WARPED material.

Use a piece of 3/8 inch plywood 9 in. x 20 in .... and attach a strip of wood 1-5/8 inches thick x 2-1/2 inches wide. (See figure 62.)

Clamp it to the table so that the workpiece will SLIDE EASILY but not TILT or MOVE SIDEWAYS without

BIN DI NG between the two fences. (See figure 63.)

WARNING: FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY ...

1.NEVER RESAW FREEHAND (WITHOUT USING RIP

FENCE AND AUXILIARY FENCE) BECAUSE THE

BLADE COULD BIND IN THE CUT AND CAUSE A

KICKBACK???

2??? DO NOT "BACK UP" (REVERSE FEEDING) WHILE RESAWlNG BECAUSE THIS COULD CAUSE A

KICKBACK.

3.INSTALL BLADE GUARD IMMEDIATELY UPON COMPLETION OF THE RESAWlNG OPERATION.

DADOI NG

For best results and to avoid excessive load on the motor, NEVER CUT A 13/16" WIDE DADO, DEEPER THAN 3/4" IN ONE PASS.

Figure 59

BAFFLE

Figure 60

Figure 62

WIDER THAN 2-I/8"

Figure. 63

Blade not true at 90 ?? or 45 ??

Tilt crank and

elevating hand wheel turn hard

1.Stop screws not properly adjusted

1.Tilt clamp knob not loosened when making tilt adjustment

2.Dirt in worm and sector gears-- and need of

1.See "Adjust the 90 ?? and 45 ?? Stops" under "Assembly and Adjustments"

1.See "Clamp Knob" under "Operating Controls"

2.See "Maintenance and Lubrication"

lubrication

Kickbacks when ripping 1. Not using spreader or

spreader not aligned

2. Rip fence not parallel to blade

3. Failure to push wood all the way past

saw blade

1.Use spreader and align with saw blade

2.Adjust rip fence. (Refer to paragraph "Assembly and

Adjustments")

3.Push wood all the way past saw blade (Refer to paragraph "Proper Operating Procedures")

4.Warped wood

5.Anti-kickback pawls not working properly

6.Cut-off piece confined

7.Failure to use push stick properly

g.Dull or ;rnproperly set blade

9.Failure to use auxiliary fence and push stick when ripping material narrower than 2"

4.Use caution (Refer to paragraph "Proper Operating

Procedures")

S.Clean out any dust and apply a drop of oil around pin Replace spring if broken

Sharpen pawl teeth with a file

6.Allow cut-off piece to move laterally

7.Apply the push stick to the work piece between the fence and the saw blade

8.Use sharp, properly set blade

9.See "'Auxiliary Fence/Push :Block" and "Push Stick" under "'Proper Operating Procedures"

The following table lists some of the most common troubles caused by low voltage, their causes and suggested remedies:

NOTE: Motors used on wood-working tools

are particularly susceptible to the accumu- lation of sawdust and wood chips and should

be blown out or "'vacuumed" frequently to prevent interference with normal motor ventilation.

REMEDY

Motor fails to develop full power. (Power output of motor decreases rapidly with decrease in voltage at motor terminals.) For example: a reduction of 10% in voltage causes a reduction of 19% in maximum power output of

which the motor iscapable, while a reduction of 20%

in voltage causes a reduction of 36% in maxi-

mum power output.

1.Power line overloaded with

lights, appliances and other motors.

2.Undersize wires or circuit too long.

g.General overloading of power company's facilities. (In many sections of thecountry, demand

for electrical power exceeds the capacity of existing generating and distribution systems.)

1.Reduce line load.

2.Increase wire sizes, or reduce length of wiring.

3.Request a voltage check from the power company.

2.Improper cooling. (Air circulation restricted through motor clue to sawdust, etc.)

1.Correct low voltage condition.

2.Have relay replaced.

1.Correct overload condition.

2.Clean out sawdust to provide normal air circulation through motor.

Starting relay in motor will not operate.

1.Burned relay contacts (due to extended hold-ln periods caused by low line voltage, etc.).

2.Open relay coil.

3.Loose or broken connections in motor terminal box.

1.Have relay replaced.

2.Have relay replaced.

3.Have wiring checked and repaired.

Motor stalls (resulting in 1. Starting relay not operating.

blown fuses or tripped 2. Voltage too low to permit circuit breakers).motor to reach operating

speed.

3.Fuses or circuit breakers do not have sufficient capacity.

3.Starting relay not operating (motor does not reach normal speed).

1.Have relay replaced.

2.Request voltage check from power company.

3.Replace fuses or circuit breakers with proper capacity units.

1.Reduce motor load.

_.. Replace _uses or circuit breakers.

3. Have relay replaced.

262325+Gauge Assembly, Miter (See Fig. 7)

362403Insert Assembly, Table (Includes

862290Fence Assembly, Rip (See Fig. 6)

960122*Screw, Set, 3/8 -16 x 15/16",Hex.Soc.Cup Pt.

1362011Spacer, Fence Guide Bar

1460049*Screw, Self Tapping,No. 4-40 x 3/16"

22454896*Screw, 3/8 -16 x 1/2"',Hex.Hd.

2360127*Bolt, 7/16-14 x l",Hex.Hd.

2762216

28STD 551131

29STD 523107

3062217

31142745

32STD 523112

3362140

34STD 541031

3562141

3662215

3762402

3860195

3938845

4062257

4138746

42 38747

43STD 51 0803

62461

62462

62463

62464

62465

Description

Extension Assembly, Table Sliding * Lockwasher, 5/16"

*Screw, Mach., 5/16 -18 x 3/4",Hex.Hd. Fence, Auxiliary

*Nut, Wing, 5/16 -18

*Screw, Mach.,5/16 -18 x 1-1/4",Hex.Hd. Support, Extension Rod

*Nut, Hex., 5/16 -18 x 9/16 x 7/32" Clamp, Table Extension

Support, Table Extension Extension, Table

Screw, Flat Hex.Rec., 4-40 x 3/8" Shoe, Cut Indicator

Housing, Cut Indicator Washer, Spring

Plate, Cut Indicator

Screw, Mach., Pan Hd., 8-32 x 3/8" Bag of Loose Parts (Legs)

(not illustrated)

Bag of Loose Parts (Aux. Fence) (not illustrated)

Bag of Loose Parts (Saw) (not illustrated)

Bag of Loose Parts (Extension) (not illustrated)

Owners Manual (not illustrated)

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 12-INCH MOTORIZED FLOOR SAW

MODEL NUMBER 113.299131

3 2 4

9 10 11

48 47

48A

49

5O

61 62 37 63

51A 51

64

65

"0

Q

m ???

1 62459

230494

360177

46362

5 3540

663062

7STD 600803

830613

962341

1062342

1162340

1262339

13STD 551131

14STD 523106

15STD 503705

1662093

1762330

18STD 503103

1962098

20STD 601103

21STD 551012 22 62100

23 STD 571812

24 62111

2562218

26STD 551050

2762094

2838825

2962O97

3062331

3163011

3262101

3362099

3462086

35STD 571810

3662090

37STD 551125

12

3 4

I

L

TO SWITCH

???ANY ATTEMPT TO REPAIR THIS MOTOR MAY

CREATE A HAZARD UNLESS REPAIR IS DONE

BY QUALIFIED SERVICE TECHNICIAN.

REPAIR SERVICE IS AVAILABLE AT YOUR

NEAREST SEARS STORE.

Figure 4

FIGURE 4 - 62459 MOTOR ASSEMBLY

*Standard Hardware Item -- May be Purchased Locally.

??? Any attempt to repair this motor may create a Hazard unless repair is done by qualified Service Technician.

Repair service is available at your nearest SearsStore.

11

SEE WIRING DIAGRAM, PAGE 5

Figure 5

FIGURE 5 - SWITCH ASSEMBLY

3STD 551210 Lockwasher, External No. 10

4STD 541110 Nut, Hex., 10-32 x 3/8 x 1/8"

*Standard Hardware Item - May be Purchased Locally.

=Canadian Model Only.

Sears

owners manual

MODEL NO.

113.299131

How to ORDER Repair Parts

The Model Number will be found on a plate attached rear of

base. Always mention the Model Number when requesting service or repair parts for your 12-inch Motorized Floor Saw.

All parts listed herein may be ordered through SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO. or SIMPSONS-SEARS LIMITED. When

ordering parts by mail, selling prices will be furnished on request or parts will be shipped at prevailing prices and you will be billed accordingly.

WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE

FOLLOWING INFORMATION AS SHOWN IN THIS LIST.

1.The PART NUMBER

2.The PART DESCRIPTION

3.The MODEL NUMBER 113.299131

4.The NAME OF ITEM -

12-INCH MOTORIZED FLOOR SAW

Sears

SER VICE is at

YOUR

SERVICE wherever YOU live or move

in the U.S.A.

Your Sears merchandise takes on added value when you discover that Sears has over 2,000 Service Units through out the

country. Each is staffed by Sears-trained, professional technicians using Sears approved parts and methods.