ELECTRICAL
REPRODUCTION AUTOLITE BATTERIES
Autolite batteries are an excellent reproduction for your
AUTOLITE BATTERY COVER
Give your car the original look, with the use of any 24F60 flat top maintenance free battery with the correct post location. Easy to install, just follow the instructions.
OPTIMA BATTERY
Optima is a sealed,
B1
BATTERY CABLE BRACKETS & GROMMETS
MOTORCRAFT BATTERY CABLES
These cables give you the 60???s look with 90???s Performance.
DIAMONDBACK SHIELDED BATTERY CABLES
Braided alloy shielding gives you the great ???Braided??? look and resists heat and abrasion. Heavy duty 4 gauge cable with Solid brass terminals - 3 times more conductive than lead.
YOUR MUSTANG???S ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Like most cars, your Mustang???s electrical system consists of a ???primary??? and ???secondary??? system. The ???primary??? system is everything related to the engine???s starting and ignition system. The ???secondary???system consists of all wiring for headlights, tailights, and interior lights. Refer to the wiring diagram books that we sell. Also, pick up a (Repro) Shop Manual . After studying the schematics for some time, you???ll easily understand how everything works. We have grouped this section by specific areas (starting, charging, interior, headlights, tailights and wiring looms), to help you find what you may need.
Note: 12 volt negative ground means that your Mustang???s frame and metal body is the negative side of the electrical system. The wiring in your car carries the positive side to lights, etc.
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BATTERY HINTS
When replacing the battery, wear safety goggles, and make sure the ignition is in the ???off??? position. Keep flame and sparks away. When picking up the battery, avoid pressing on sides, as it may force
gas and/or acid from the top. Replace clean cable ends, before installing your new battery. Be sure cables are properly oriented
positive (+) and negative
Note: Most ???dead??? batteries that fail to start on a cold morning, many times is actually because of dirty battery terminals and cable ends.
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ELECTRICAL
H1
H3
H2
H4 G1
J1
K1
L2
L4
HOW DO I KNOW MY IGNITION SWITCH IS BAD? If your ignition switch fails to engage the starter, it may be bad. After hundreds of starts, this switch can wear down by dirty or worn contacts. A bad switch can also cause the
solenoid and starter to ???stick on???, and also fail to engage the accessories contact.
BATTERY TRAY
A must for
J1
BATTERY TRAY HOLD DOWN
TRUNK MOUNT BATTERY KIT
Provides better weight distribution and traction. All necessary hardware included.
K1
IGNITION SWITCH
IGNITION RESISTOR WIRE
Used between Ignition and Coil to prevent point burn.
REMANUFACTURED STARTERS
Remanufactured, ask for current details on core.
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ELECTRICAL
STARTER SOLENOID
Solenoids with the concours markings and color.
ELECTRONIC VOLTAGE REGULATOR
For
REMANUFACTURED GENERATOR
Remanufactured, ask for current details on core.
GENERATOR WIRE HARNESS
REMANUFACTURED ALTERNATOR
Remanufactured, ask for current details on core.
ALTERNATOR TROUBLESHOOTING
The alternator is the one part that tells you when it???s going bad. When the light on the dash (ALT) comes on, or flickers, it usually means that one
(or both) of the two diodes in the alternator has failed, and it???s time for a new or rebuilt one. If you???re unsure, a local shop can run an electrical test on the alternator, voltage regulator and battery. Sometimes a low engine idle, and/or loose belt can make the ???ALT??? light flicker. When an alternator fails it usually takes the voltage regulator along with it. So it???s highly advisable to replace both. If you drive your Mustang a lot, we recommend a
ALTERNATOR -
ALTERNATOR - WIRING HARNESS (E5)
Alternator to Regulator. (1 of 3 under hood looms) Attaches to the back of alternator, plugs into main headlight harness and ground.
MUSTANG WIRING LOOMS AND HARNESSES
Rewiring your Mustang, using reproduced looms and harnesses should not seem as difficult as at first impression.
Your Mustang is basically made up of an
If you are unsure about wiring your car, an auto electric shop can install your looms for you. Don???t attempt wiring, splicing, etc., unless you know what you???re doing, as an electrical fire can result from a ???mistake.???
ELECTRICAL
R1
S2
S1
T1
E1 - Heater Motor,
E2 - Engine Gauge Feed
E3 - Hood turn signial wiring
E4 - Headlamp loom wiring harness
E5 - Alternator wiring loom
E6 - Headlamp wiring extension
E7 - Firewall to solenoid N/A
HOW DO I KNOW IF MY HEADLIGHT SWITCH IS BAD? If your headlights dim or flicker, or if your dash and/or taillights flicker, then the switch is bad. Circuit breakers are in the switch, and after much use, can
fail. Remember to depress button on side of switch to remove switch handle (pulls out).
ALTERNATOR - BRACKETS
WIRE LOOM MOUNTING KIT
Includes all straps, anchors and clips need to install loom.
ENGINE GAUGE FEED (E2)
From firewall to engine components. On
FUSE - PARTS
HEADLAMP
Incandescents are an OE replacement, Halogens give you 50% brighter light with 25% longer range for better safety.
HEADLIGHT - DIMMER SWITCH AND CAP
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ELECTRICAL
HEADLIGHT - SWITCH
HEADLIGHT - SWITCH BEZEL
DASH BEZEL AND KNOB KIT
Includes: Headlight switch knob and bezel, wiper knob and bezel, ignition bezel, and a cigarette lighter element and knob assembly.
HEADLIGHT - KNOB & SHAFT
HEADLIGHT LOOM WIRING HARNESS (E4)
Firewall to Headlamp/Regulator loom. (1 of 3 under hood looms) All
HEADLIGHT WIRING EXTENSION (E6)
PARKING LAMP - HOUSING W/PIG TAIL
U1
U2
U3
PARKING LAMP
INSTALLATION KIT
Includes: Mounting pads, lenses, gaskets, bulbs and mounting hardware.
PARKING LAMP DELUXE KIT
Includes: Pair of parking lamp housings, mounting pads, lenses, gaskets, bulbs and mounting hardware.
PARKING LAMP - ASSEMBLY W/ LENS & PIG TAIL
ELECTRICAL
PARKING LAMP - BULB
SIDE MARKER - ASSEMBLY
TAIL LAMP BEZEL KIT
Includes: Bezels, lenses, gaskets and mounting hardware.
B1
A1
WHY WON???T MY TAILLIGHTS WORK?
Few things are as frustrating as taillights that won???t work. After years of use, old Mustang taillights can ???go dark.??? Several things can hinder
taillights, brake and signal lights. Two circuits go to every tail lights: brake/signal, and headlight/taillight. Both of these circuits go into one bulb (LH, RH each) with two filaments (No. 1157). A common ground wire or contact completes these circuits. The ground contact, usually the bulb socket against the reflector housing, (which is grounded to the car) can become corroded over the years and should be cleaned up or replaced.
A bad headlight switch can prevent the taillight circuit to work. If only one side works (taillight or signal or brake), then the turn signal switch is usually at fault. Check the brake light switch is well. Taillights that work, but are dim, are usually due to a bad ground and/or taillight lenses that have darkened with age. Remember to do a complete restoration of the entire system to obtain optimum results. A voltmeter to measure amperage can be handy, too.
TAIL LIGHT - WIRE LOOM (A1)
Plugs into main under dash harness and turn signal harness and runs to tail lights, license plate light, back up lights, gas tank sending unit, and panel lamps on FB.
TAIL LIGHT - HOUSING
TAIL LIGHT - HOUSING TO BODY GASKET
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ELECTRICAL
TAIL LIGHT - TAIL LIGHT TO HOUSING GASKET
TAIL LIGHT - DOOR
TAIL LIGHT - LENS
TAIL LIGHT - LENS GASKET
TAIL LIGHT - BULB
BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH
BRAKE SWITCH HARDWARE
TAIL LAMP BEZEL KIT
Includes: Six bezels, pads and mounting hardware.
HOW DO I KNOW MY BRAKE (STOP) LIGHT SWITCH IS
BAD?
If it isn???t a bad turn signal switch, the brake light switch, mounted on the brake pedal (except
can either produce a dim, delayed or no brake signal, when bad. A good switch will produce brake lights at the slightest touch of the brakes. Replacement is relatively easy, if you???re good at lying on your back under the dash!
BRAKE WARNING LIGHT SWITCH
BACK UP LIGHT - HOUSING W/PIG TAIL
BACK UP LIGHT - HOUSING GASKET
BACK UP - LENS
BACK UP INSTALLATION KIT
Includes: Mounting pads, lenses, gaskets, bulbs and mounting hardware.
BACK UP LAMP DELUXE KIT
Includes: Back up housing, pads, lenses, gaskets, bulbs, and installation hardware.
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ELECTRICAL
BACK UP - LIGHT LENS GASKET
BACK UP - LIGHT SWITCH
LICENSE PLATE LAMP PARTS
TURN SIGNAL - LEVER
TURN SIGNAL - CAM REPAIR KIT
Instead of replacing your whole turn signal switch for a broken or faulty cam, use this kit. (Repo. & Not for tilt wheel.)
TURN SIGNAL - FLASHER
TURN SIGNAL - SWITCH
EMERGENCY - SIGNAL FLASHER
EMERGENCY - SIGNAL FLASHER SWITCH
D1
F1
HOW DO I KNOW MY TURN SIGNAL SWITCH IS BAD? If you???ve eliminated the possibility of turn signal & brake light bulb, pig tail, battery, or alternator etc., failure, then it probably is a bad switch. All four turn
signals, the brake lights, license plate light, horn, as well as the emergency flasher (after ???67), go through this switch. Four separate signals go through this switch, two front, two rear. You will need to pull the steering wheel to replace this switch, and re- wire the connector to the under dash harness. (See Shop Manual). Do not over torque steering wheel after replacement, as it can break the plastic cam.
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ELECTRICAL
NEUTRAL (SAFETY) &
NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH WIRE LOOM
UNDER DASH WIRING HARNESS
Main under dash harness. All new parts with fuse block and clips, lamp sockets and all molded plugs. ???67???s tach loom sold seperately.
DASH INSTRUMENT REGULATOR
DOOR JAMB SWITCH
DOOR COURTESY LAMP & SPEAKER LOOM (DOOR)
DOOR COURTESY LAMP (DOOR)
DOME LIGHT - BEZEL
DOME LIGHT - LENS & BULB
QUARTER TRIM LAMP
HOW DO I KNOW THE NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH
IS OUT?
This switch, mounted on the side of the automatic transmission, is intended to prevent your starting
in drive or reverse. If you turn the key and nothing happens - no starter movement - then with the brake on, shift into neutral and try. If it starts, the switch is out of adjustment, if not, chances are it???s this switch (if the battery and starter and solenoid are o.k.). This switch can be replaced without removing the transmission.
To add the ???Grand Turismo??? look, Ford added two gauges to the steering column, Tachometer and a Clock. Our reproduction includes an electronic Tach. and quartz clock. Authentic wrinkle finish. (1966 Type only, similar to ???65 GT & Pony interior cars.
L1
ELECTRICAL
KEY TO LINE LISTING:
Bold Print = Reproduction /
Standard Print = Current Original Ford Replacement Parts
CONSOLE - PARTS & LAMP
Assembly includes: Die cast lamp, lens and pigtail.
S1 S2 S3
Q1
GLOVE COMPARTMENT LAMP
CIGAR LIGHTER PARTS
HORN RING / CAP
HORN RING CONTACT KIT
Includes: Contact plate, spring plate, horn ring retainer pressure pad, and screws. (A1, A2, A7, A13, A17)
Deluxe steering wheel. Includes: Plastic insulators and screws.
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ELECTRICAL
???DEALER OPTION??? GT FOG LAMP INSTALLATION KIT
Although included with the GT option, fog lamps were originally available from the dealer separately. Our kits include: Fog lamp housing, bars, wiring harness kit, switch, bulbs, instructions, under dash wiring, wires to solenoid, ground wires, firewall grommets, 10 amp breaker and wiring diagram. *1966 requires GT Horse and Corral.
FOG LIGHT - HOUSING
FOG LIGHT - BULB
FOG LIGHT - BARS
FOG LIGHT - BAR GRILL MOUNTING BRACKETS
FOG LIGHT - SWITCH
FOG LIGHT - WIRING HARNESS UNDER DASH
FOG LIGHT TO FIREWALL FEED
FOG LIGHT - GROUND WIRE
E8 66 .......
FOG LIGHT - CIRCUIT BREAKER
FOG LIGHT - PIGTAIL
G5
G20
G2
G1
G7
???67 ???66
305522
RestorationG3
Guide
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