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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Top Ten Tips for Installing Vinyl Siding

CertainTeed provides quality vinyl siding and accessories that are backed by one of the industry???s best warranties. However, even the best products fall short of expectations if they are not installed properly. Following these ten recommendations???the basics of a professional installation???can help ensure a quality installation that fulfills homeowners??? expectations and reduces call backs.

1.Install all siding and accessories over a smooth, flat surface. Always install siding over a rigid sheathing, and never install it over open studs.

2.Vinyl siding is not a watertight material. Install a weather-resistant barrier, like CertainTeed CertaWrap and flash around all windows and doors before installing vinyl siding and trim.

3.There are three recommended ways to cut vinyl siding:

For rip cuts, score the panel with a knife or vinyl blade and bend the panel back and forth. Use aviator snips or shears to fit panels around windows and doors. For cross cuts, use a circular saw with a plywood blade in the reverse position.

4.Always leave room for expansion and contraction into receiving channels like outside cornerposts, inside cornerposts, and J-channel. If the temperature is above 40??, leave 1/4"; if the temperature is below 40??, leave 3/8".

5.When installing horizontal vinyl siding panels 12' 6" in length or shorter, overlap the factory notches 1" to 1-1/4" (depending on the temperature).

6.Always nail in the center of the nail slots: 16" on center for siding; 8" to 12" for accessories.

7.DO NOT NAIL TIGHT! Always leave 1/8" to 1/16" between the nail head and the wall surface to allow for movement when the panel expands and contracts.

8.Hang vertical accessories from the top of the top nail slot. If the accessory is longer than 12', hang it from the top two nail slots.

9.Lap away from the highest traffic pattern, typically the front of the house. Keep laps at least 3' apart from course to course, and install three courses between laps above each other.

10.Finish the last piece of siding into utility trim or dual utility trim.

Master Craftsman Education and Development test.

As a Master Craftsman, you are entitled to:

???Receive a personalized Certificate of Completion that you can use to promote your professional services.

???Be listed as a Master Craftsman on our contractor locator website, where potential customers can find you. The listing will include your name, company name, phone number, e-mail address, and a link

to your website if you have one.

???Have access to the Master Craftsman website, which includes Building Solutions?? program information, industry news and information, and product and installation updates.

For more information about the CertainTeed Master Craftsman program, call

800-233-8990

or log on to

www.certainteed.com/ mastercraftsman

Important Information

Warranties

These instructions describe and illustrate the steps involved in installing CertainTeed siding, trim, and accessories. Their purpose is to provide detailed information and how-to tips that will simplify the installation process. CertainTeed shall not accept any liability or responsibility under its written warranty for failure caused by application that does not meet the requirements for proper installation. These requirements are outlined throughout this book. Any deviations from these requirements should be addressed and approved in writing by CertainTeed Corporation.

In rare instances, intense sunlight reflected from glass on vinyl siding may create heat buildup and cause the siding to distort. To help minimize the effects of heat buildup from reflected sun, the homeowner may take one or more of the following measures:

???Install a screen in the window causing the problem.

???Install an awning over the window to break the line of light reflection.

???Use shrubbery to protect the area of siding from reflections.

For more information on the potential damaging effects of concentrated solar reflection, visit the VSI website at http://www.vinylsiding.org/aboutsiding/cleanmain/ solarandheat/index.asp

Building codes and regulations vary throughout the country. Be sure to check with your local code official or governing body for the building requirements in your area.

New OSHA Fall Protection

Compliance Directives

STD 03-11-002 Compliance Guidance for Residential Construction was issued on Dec. 6, 2010 and went into effect June 16, 2011. For more information visit www.OSHA.gov or consult your local State OSHA plan.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Lead Renovations

Many houses and apartments built before 1978 have paint that contains high levels of lead (called lead-based paint). Lead from paint, chips, and dust can pose serious health hazards if not taken care of properly.

You can find out about safety measures for lead-based paint by calling 1-800-424-LEAD. Ask for the brochure ???Reducing Lead Hazards When Remodeling Your Home.??? That brochure explains what to do before, during, and after renovations.

Important Fire Safety Information

Exterior vinyl building materials require little maintenance for many years. Nevertheless, common sense dictates that builders and suppliers of vinyl products store, handle and install vinyl materials in a manner that avoids damage to the product and/or the structure. Owners and installers should take a few simple steps to protect vinyl building materials from fire:

???To Home and Building Owners: Rigid vinyl siding is made from organic materials and will melt or burn when exposed to a significant source of flame or heat. Building owners, occupants and outside maintenance personnel should always take normal precautions to keep sources of fire, such as barbecues, and combustible materials, such as dry leaves, mulch and trash, away from vinyl siding.

???To the Building Trades, Specifiers, Professionals and Do-It-Yourself Installers: When rigid vinyl siding is exposed to significant heat or flame, the vinyl will soften, sag, melt or burn, and may thereby expose material underneath. Care must be exercised when selecting underlayment materials because many underlayment materials are made from organic materials that are combustible. You should ascertain the fire properties of underlayment materials prior to installation. All building materials should be installed in accordance with local, state and federal building codes and fire regulations.

Straight-Up Installation

???Notched side laps allow you to push in and straight-up to lock the panel securely ??? just like traditional vinyl siding!

7/16"

3/4"

Butt Leg / Locking Leg

Molded area at bottom of panel that is snapped into lock on adjacent panel for secure connection.

Panel Thickness

An important element of soffit quality. Thicker panels are more durable and are less prone to sagging.

Exposure

The width of the exposed face of each panel of soffit; also referred to as reveal.

Lock

Molded area just under nailing flange into which butt leg/locking leg of adjacent panel is secured.

Panel Projection

Common to products with multiple faces (i.e. Triple 3). It is the dimension required for the proper selection of receiving channels (e.g., J-channels and corner pieces).

7"7"

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Corner Systems (continued)

Mitered cornerposts

Outside and inside corner treatment for use with

Cedar Impressions.

Bay window cornerpost???matte

Adapts to odd angles of bay windows.

Quarter round insert???matte

Installed with a Corner Starter and lineals as a decorative corner treatment.

5" Corner cap???matte

Used to create corner systems.

Cedar Impressions S7" bay window inside and outside cornerposts

Use with Cedar Impressions D7" Straight Edge Perfection Shingles only to adapt to the odd angles of a bay window.

Cut off and discard

Special Tools

Siding

Soffit

Porch ceiling

Accessories

Receiving channel

Outside corner

Inside corners

Nails

Width of accessory recess opening: (circle one) 1/2" 3/4" 1-1/4"

Pounds required (1-1/2" minimum)

16"

32" 32"

8"

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Continuous foam insulation systems (SIPs)

Continuous foam insulation systems (e.g. rigid insulation, structural insulation products) thicker than 1" create a condition where CertainTeed vinyl siding and polymer shakes cannot be properly attached to the existing framing members, steel studs, or structural sheathing.

The easiest way to meet the fastening requirements for CertainTeed siding is to install 3/4" structural sheathing (such as OSB or plywood) over the continuous foam insulation. However, the wall assembly must be designed in such a way that the structural fastening surface that is re-established on the exterior of the insulating products is sufficient to meet the requirements of ICC-ES Evaluation Report ESR-1066 for vinyl siding or ICC-ES Evaluation Report ESR-3085 for polymer shakes.

CertainTeed does not provide instructions for wall design or assembly that specifically relates to the fastening requirements for re-establishing a structural fastening surface for CertainTeed vinyl and polymer siding. However, FastenMaster?? provides two documents to assist in successfully re-establishing a structural fastening system on the exterior of a continuous foam insulation system:

???Technical Evaluation Report (TER No. 1009-01): Use of FastenMaster HeadLok??? Fasteners to Attach Cladding and/or Furring to Wood Framing through Foam Sheathing

???Technical Bulletin: Attaching Exterior Wall Covering Assemblies with Foam Sheathing to Steel Wall Framing

The Fasten Master reports must be used in combination with ICC-ES Evaluation Report ESR-1066 for vinyl siding or ICC-ES Evaluation Report ESR-3085 for polymer shakes to determine attachment requirements. In addition, all the installation methods included in this manual must be met.

Fastening CertaWrap??? Weather

Resistant Barrier

To secure the Weather-Resistant Barrier, use the appropriate recommended fasteners and fastening schedule for your application.

Wood-based sheathing

When attaching CertaWrap Weather-Resistant Barrier on wood- base sheathing, such as 7/16" OSB or 15/32" plywood, apply plastic-capped staples or plastic-capped nails every 32" vertically and horizontally.

Open-stud construction or non-structural sheathing

When attaching CertaWrap Weather-Resistant Barrier on open studs or non-structural sheathing, apply plastic-capped staples or plastic-capped nails long enough to penetrate the stud a minimum of 5/8" every 32" vertically and horizontally.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Steel framing

12"

(min.) flap

When installing CertaWrap Weather-Resistant Barrier over steel framing, use screws with minimum 1" diameter washers every 32" vertically and horizontally.

STUDfinder??? installation instructions

1.The STUDfinder Installation System combines precisely engineered fastening locations with graphics that help ensure quick, accurate, and secure installation. Install CertaWrap horizontally to exterior walls prior to the application of exterior cladding. Vertically position the CertaWrap roll at the corner of the structure with the printed side out.

2.Locate the first stud and verify that it is plumb. Align the first stud with the nearest vertical STUDfinder line, allowing for a minimum 12" flap to wrap the corner for attachment to the adjoining wall. Extend the bottom edge of the CertaWrap 2"???4" over the sill plate. Apply plastic-capped staples or plastic-capped nails every 32" vertically along the first stud to secure the Weather-Resistant Barrier into position.

3.Unroll the CertaWrap along the exterior wall. Wrap CertaWrap completely around the building, covering window and door openings, plates, sills and corners.

4.To secure the Weather-Resistant Barrier, use the fasteners and fastening schedule that is appropriate for your application. The STUDfinder marks will quickly guide you to your desired fastening location without the need for chalk lines. Each letter is spaced 1.6" apart, and each series spans 16". To achieve 32" spacing between fasteners, first locate the letter that the first row of fasteners covers. The second repeat of that letter is at 32".

5.Pull the CertaWrap snug and fasten it to the studs or sheathing and to the top and bottom plates.

6.When starting a new roll in the middle of a wall, overlap vertical and horizontal laps in the field a minimum of 6". When starting a new roll at an inside or outside corner, overlap vertical and horizontal seams a minimum of 12". All vertical and horizontal seams are to be installed in a weatherboard fashion. Lap CertaWrap over all existing flashings (e.g. z-flashing, roof-to- wall flashing, drip cap).

7.Flash or tape all vertical and horizontal seams and penetrations.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

undersill trim

sill

J-channel

siding

siding

J-channel

sill

16" 1" x 3" furring

foam sheathing

masonry fastener for attaching furring

When covering over masonry or bricks, it???s better to use 1" x 3" furring. For best thermal performance, install a minimum

of 1/4" foam over furring strips.

Furring strip/foam shim

Furring and/or foam is also used below eaves and windowsills to maintain correct slope angles when siding panels must be cut to a narrower dimension to fit.

Similarly, when panels are cut to fit over doors or windows, furring and/or foam is used to establish the correct slope angle.

furring strip/foam shim

Applying over stucco or masonry

When applying vinyl siding over stucco or masonry, you first have to be sure you???re working on an even surface. To create that surface, you may have to knock down high spots where furring strips will be applied. Use caution when chipping off these spots???you don???t want to crack or damage the remaining stucco or masonry.

Apply 1" x 3" furring over the stucco or masonry using power- actuated fasteners or other appropriate masonry fasteners. Stucco will not hold fasteners tightly, so be sure nails or screws are anchored securely to studs. Furring strips should be spaced 16" on center.

Applying rigid foam sheathing to furring

Install sheathing according to manufacturer???s instructions. Do not apply siding directly to furring strips. For best thermal

performance, install a minimum of 1/4" foam over furring strips.

center nail in slots

sheathing or substrate

center nail in slots

upper edge of topmost nailing slot

Note: See pages 35-36 for general fastening guidelines

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Applying over steel studs

Pre-planning is the key when installing vinyl siding and accessories over steel studs. Pre-planning includes the selection of siding style and the types of accessories. Pre-planning proper stud placement will eliminate many of the problems that could surface once the job has been started, such as at corners, windows, and transitional areas.

Follow the same guidelines as in a wood surface???except for the type of fasteners used. Wall sheathing must be installed over the studs. This will provide a straighter, smoother and more rigid wall surface and help prevent studs from twisting. Siding must be secured into metal studs if the substrate is not a nailable surface such as exterior dry wall, gypsum board, etc.

The application of vinyl siding, soffits and accessories over steel stud framing rather than typical wood framing is straightforward. The main difference is the use of screws to hang components that make up a completed siding job.

Use noncorrosive, self-tapping screws with at least 5/16" diameter head, 1/8" diameter shaft, and at least 1-1/8" long.

Although the fastening method for steel studs differs from wood construction, all other procedures still apply, including fastening in the center of the nail slot and not overtightening the fasteners.

Nailing, Stapling and Other

Fastening Methods

If you want to ensure a quality vinyl siding installation, focus your attention on nailing techniques. Unfortunately, a lot of installers don???t. They feel nailing is a routine task, something everyone knows how to do. But that???s not the case. At CertainTeed, we analyzed reported installation problems, and we found that more than half of them can be traced back to improper nailing. So if you want to save yourself lost time and frustration, carefully observe the following guidelines when installing accessories, siding panels, soffit, or porch ceilings.

Lock the panel and begin nailing at the center of the panel, working toward the ends. This helps maintain a level line.

With horizontal accessories and panels, position the nails in the center of the elongated nailing slots to allow for expansion and contraction. Never nail through the panel surface.

With vertical accessories and panels, position the first nail at the upper edge of the topmost nailing slot. This allows a panel to hang from the nail. Position the remaining nails in the center of the nailing slots. Allow for 1/3 of the total expansion at the top and 2/3 of the total expansion at the bottom.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Up to 1/8"

Center staples in slots

NOTE: Do not nail too tightly. To permit expansion and contraction, panels should hang freely from nails. This allows the panels to move as the temperature changes. Drive the nails until there is between 1/8" to 1/16" of space between the nail head and the nailing flange.

Drive the nails straight in. Do not angle nails.

Per the ASTM specification for vinyl siding installation (D4756), proper nail penetration is at least 3/4". In most cases, that requires anchoring to studs.

Fastener spacing

Fasteners are typically spaced a maximum of 16" apart. In new construction, fasten to studs on 16" centers. Do not skip studs. Some vinyl siding may be used in 24" on center construction in areas without special wind-load requirements (fasteners spaced a maximum of 24" apart). Check with your local building code official for special requirements and ICC-ES Evaluation Report ESR-1066 for specific wind-load requirements.

Other fastening techniques:

Manual nailing is the most common way of fastening vinyl siding to a wall. That???s because it offers greater control, making it easier to learn how to fasten panels securely, but not tightly. You also can use power screwdrivers or pneumatic staplers/ nailers to attach vinyl siding to a wall, but you must take the time to develop the proper skills. If you choose to use one of these

alternate techniques, follow all the recommendations above for nail positioning and spacing and the recommendations for substrate preparation on pages 28 to 32 for horizontal applications and page 80 for vertical, including Board & Batten. In addition, be sure to observe the following guidelines:

Power screwdrivers

Use noncorrosive, self-tapping truss head screws. Screws must have at least 5/16" diameter head and 1/8" diameter shaft. Screws must be at least 1-1/8" long. If underlayment is less than 3/4" thick and is not considered a nailable surface (for example, foam or exterior grade gypsum), be sure screws are long enough to penetrate at least 3/4" into wood studs or substrate, 1/8" through a steel stud. Be sure screws are centered in the nail slot. Leave 1/16" to 1/8" space between the screw head and the panel nailing flange.

Pneumatic staplers/nailers

Use corrosion-resistant fasteners only. Fasteners must be centered in the nail slot, no more than 16" on center.

NOTE: Some power staplers/nailers use an attachment that helps position the fastener in the nail slot. If your unit does not have that feature, you must carefully position the fastener by sight.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

1/4" to 3/16"

top most nail at the top of the top most full nail slot

center remaining nails in the slot

3/8" to 1/2"

Hang off of top nail slot (see page 80 for more details).

sheathing

housewrap

starter

strip

metal flashing

foundation

6-1/2" for wide corners

& lineals

4" for standard corners

8" to 10"

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Installing Accessories

Snapping a chalk line

To ensure proper installation, you must establish a straight reference line to guide the positioning of the starter strip and the first course of siding.

If the house is reasonably level, find the lowest point of the old siding (or sheathing if working on new construction). Partially drive a nail at one corner, starter height minus 1/4" above the lowest corner. Attach chalk line. Go to other corner and pull the chalk line taut. Stretch the chalk line from this nail to the opposite corner

of the house. Make sure the line is level, using a line level or 4' (minimum) level. Snap chalk line and repeat the procedure around the entire house.

A water level, a long clear plastic tube 90% filled with water, is useful in marking level points around the house and on opposite sides of openings such as doors. Water will always seek a level state, ensuring the markings will always be at the same level.

NOTE: If after establishing a chalk line you find that your starter strip will be positioned below an easily nailed surface, you may have to apply a nailable base.

If you have added sheathing, you may want to bend trim coil to act as flashing and help prevent entry of insects. Bend the coil in a ???Z??? shape so the top edge of the coil is on the chalk line and the bottom edge extends down over the foundation. (See illustration.)

NOTE: The general guidelines for cutting and nailing vinyl panels and for allowing for expansion and contraction also apply to vinyl accessory items.

Installing the starter strip

Position the starter strip with the top edge on the chalk line and the ends 6-1/2" away from the outside and inside corners (when using lineal systems or wide corners), 4" if using standard one-piece corners. Nail to wall following previously mentioned nailing instructions. When hollows occur in the wall surface, shim out the starter strip to avoid a wavy appearance in the finished siding job. Nail every 8" to 10".

As you add starter strip sections, be sure to leave 1/4" space between them for expansion.

Sometimes???especially at sills above garage doors, porches or brick surfaces where the siding has been cut lengthwise ???you may find it easier to use a combination of utility trim and J-channel as a starter strip to secure a panel.

If you are concerned that the house is not level, measure down from the soffit at one corner of the house to the top of the foundation and subtract the width of the starter strip minus 1/4". Mark the wall, then transfer the measurement to the other corner of the wall. Snap a chalk line in between the corners at the marks.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

1/4"

Top of topmost nail, center remaining nails

flashing

nail every 8" to 10"

3/4"

3/8"

Top of two top nail slots, center remaining nails

flashing

Outside Cornerposts

Flash the corners of the home by bending a 20"-wide piece of aluminum trim coil 90?? so you have two 10" legs. Cover the entire length of the corner, lapping the upper pieces over the lower pieces. (Self-adhering flashing may be substituted for trim coil. Follow the manufacturer???s installation instructions and observe local building code requirements.)

For cornerposts 12' long or less

Position the outside cornerpost so that the top of the post is 1/4" from the underside of the eave. Extend the bottom of the cornerpost 3/4" below the starter strip.

Before nailing, make sure the post is straight and true. Hang the cornerpost by first positioning a nail at the top of the topmost nail slot. Position all remaining nails in the center of nail slots a maximum of every 8" to 10". Leave 1/8" to 1/16" between the nail head and the cornerpost to allow the cornerpost to move during normal expansion and contraction. (DO NOT NAIL TIGHT.) Follow this nailing pattern on both nail flanges of each post.

NOTE: CedarBoards corners install similar to standard outside cornerposts.

For cornerposts longer than 12' long

Position the outside cornerpost so that the top of the post is 3/8" from the underside of the eave. Extend the bottom of the cornerpost 3/4" below the starter strip.

Before nailing, make sure the post is straight and true. Hang the cornerpost by first positioning a nail at the top of the two top nail slots slot. Position all remaining nails in the center of nail slots a maximum of every 8" to 10". Leave 1/8" to 1/16" between the nail head and the cornerpost to allow the cornerpost to move during normal expansion and contraction. (DO NOT NAIL TIGHT.) Follow this nailing pattern on both nail flanges of each post.

NOTE: When installing any hanging cornerpost longer than 12', position the fasteners at the top of the top two nail slots on each side of the corner.

Transitioning from masonry to stucco

Position the bottom of the cornerpost 3/4" below the starter strip. If the corner is less than 12', leave 3/8" from masonry/flashing to allow for expansion. If the corner is greater than 12', leave 5/8" from masonry/flashing for expansion.

1/4"

1"

1 pc. outside corner piece

flashing behind finished corner assembly

butted splice joint

splice backer (hidden)

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

NOTE: If the transition material allows, the bottom 3/4" of the channels may be removed from the outside cornerpost so that the face of the corner may be positioned lower and more in line with the bottom of the siding. This method creates

a transition with more pleasing aesthetics. The outside cornerpost face must still maintain 3/8" or 5/8" clearance from obstructions.

If posts must be spliced for high walls, you have two options:

Option 1

Cut 1" off the nailing flanges and back so just the face of the outside cornerpost remains. Then lap 3/4" of the upper post over the lower post, allowing 1/4" gap for expansion. This method will provide an obvious joint between the two posts, but will allow water to flow over the joint, reducing the chance of water infiltration.

When the bottom edge of a cornerpost terminates into a porch, deck, brick, stone ledge, or roof line, etc., allow 3/8" for every 10' of corner when the ambient temperature is above 40??F; 1/2" for every 10' of corner when the ambient temperature is 40??F or below.

NOTE: It is acceptable to reverse lap outside corners as long as the corners are properly flashed and water can drain from the bottom of the cornerpost.

Option 2

Cut a 6" length of cornerpost and trim the nail flange, receiving channel, and sides until you have just a 90?? bend of vinyl. Using PVC primer and PVC cement, glue the bent piece to the inside of the upper post and lower post. Butt the two posts together.

Nail the entire assembly as one post with all nails in the lower post centered in the nail slots.

Also see additional instructions covering installation of four-piece cornerposts (page 40).

cornerpost

splice backer

PVC adhesive on backside of cornerposts

PVC primer and PVC cement must be used

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

7/8"

Capping an outside cornerpost

One method of capping an outside cornerpost is to cut a piece of J-channel twice as long as the width of the corner-post face. Mark a 90?? angle from the center and cut out this area. Then cut 7/8" away from each end, except for the nailing flange. Bend the J-channel in the center and nail it to the outside of the corner of the house. Then insert the cornerpost into the J-channel.

Another alternative is to trim the nail flange, receiving channel, and sides from the bottom 1" of the cornerpost. Notch 1" at the 90?? bend, fold the bottom 1" of the cornerpost face, and fasten these ???flaps??? with a pop rivet.

1/4" to 3/8"

hang from top nail, center remaining nails

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Inside Cornerposts

There are three options for trimming inside corners: Standard 3/4" inside cornerpost, single J-channel, and two J-channels.

To flash the inside corner, bend a 20"-wide piece of aluminum coil stock 90?? so you have two 10" legs. Insert the flashing into the corner. If you use more than one piece of flashing, overlap the upper pieces of the flashing over the lower pieces.

To install inside cornerpost, hang the post from the top of the eave. The bottom should extend 3/4" below the starter strip. Remove the bottom 3/4" of the nailing flange so it does not show below the siding. Set the post straight and true. Position the top nail in the top of the nailing slot. All other nails should be in the center

of the nail slots

solid nailable substrate

corner flashing

(scrap aluminum coil, for example)

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

???L??? shaped flashing

???L??? shaped flashing

Federal Corners

To create a federal-style corner, flash the corner with aluminum trim coil or other flashing materials. Hang a new construction starter strip. Position the top nail in the top of the nailing slot. All other nails should be centered in the slots spaced 8" to 10" apart.

Position and secure the 3-1/2" lineal.

Position and secure an aluminum starter strip.

Position and secure the 5" lineal.

NOTE: Aluminum starter can be used for both lineals. If the aluminum starter used for the 5" lineal is not long enough, fashion a starter using a metal brake and coil stock to a length that allows for proper nailing into the substrate.

Inside Federal Corners

Flash the corner with aluminum trim coil or other flashing materials.

Position and secure the 5" lineals (or a 3-1/2" lineal) by butting the lineal up to the inside corner. Using a 5" lineal will create a symmetric 3-1/2" exposure in the corner. If two 3-1/2" lineals are used, one exposure will be approximately 2-1/4" and one will be 3-1/2".

NOTE: Attaching the second lineal will keep the first lineal in place. You will not need a starter strip. Always position the top nail in the top of the nailing slot. All other nails should be centered in the slots spaced 8" to 10" apart.

Position and secure the starter strip.

Position and secure the remaining lineal.

for angles less than 45??

push down until nail flanges seat flat

remove half of the longer leg

for angles 45?? and larger

pop rivets

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Trimming Bay Window Corners

There are several ways to trim the odd angles of bay windows. Here are two of them:

1.Install bay window cornerpost.

2.Install J-channel with a quarter-round insert.

Before you begin, make sure the corner is properly flashed.

Install bay window cornerpost

???Cut bay window cornerpost to the proper length.

???For angles less than 45??, push down on the face of the corner until the nail flanges seat flat against the wall surfaces.

???Hang the cornerpost by nailing loosely into the topmost nail slot.

???Make sure the cornerpost is straight and true.

???Position all remaining nails in the center of nail slots a maximum of every 8" to 10". Leave 1/8" to 1/16" between the nail head and the cornerpost to allow the cornerpost to move during normal expansion and contraction.

???Fit the siding into the cornerpost.

Install J-Channel with quarter-round insert

???Cut two pieces of J-channel and one piece of quarter-round insert to length.

???Pop rivet the J-channels to each side of the quarter-round insert in at least three places.

???Nail the assembly to the corner, remembering to hang the assembly from the topmost full nail slot.

???Position all remaining nails in the center of nail slots a maximum of every 8" to 10". Leave 1/8" to 1/16" between the nail head and the J-channel for normal expansion and contraction.

???Fit the siding into the J-channels.

See page 109 for installing bay window corners with Cedar Impressions Siding.

12

34

56

Installing CertaFlash BA around a rectangular window

1.Make diagonal cuts in the weather-resistant barrier at the upper corners of the top (head) of the rough opening. Gently lift and tape the flap temporarily in place.

2.Cut a piece of CertaFlash Flex flashing for the bottom (sill) that is 12" longer than the width of the rough opening. Remove the backer from the flashing and begin applying one end to the jamb of the rough opening 6" above the sill. (NOTE: the tape will extend over the exterior edge of the jamb.) Applying even pressure to the tape with your hands, work your way down the jamb, across the sill, and up the opposite jamb, finishing 6" above the sill. Flex the overhanging tape down onto the wall, covering the weather resistant barrier in weatherboards fashion, again applying even pressure to ensure adhesion.

3.Before installing the window, apply a continuous bead of sealant to the interior of the window???s mounting flange. Install the window according to the manufacturer???s instructions.

4.Cut two strips of CertaFlash BA for the sides (jambs) of the window. Jamb flashing tape should extend a minimum of 3" above the top of the jambs of the window unit and a minimum of 1" beyond the bottom flashing tape installed in step #2, covering the width of the previously installed flashing at the base. Slowly peel release paper off as you press the flashing in place. Ensure the flashing covers all nails and mounting slots on the window???s mounting flange.

5.Cut BA flashing for the top (head) of the opening so it will extend beyond both ends of the jamb flashing Ensure the flashing covers all nails and mounting slots on the window???s mounting flange.

6.Finally, lay weather resistant barrier over the head flashing. Apply CertaTape over both diagonal cuts.

1"

1"

rain tab

rain tab

1"

1" or dimension of J-channel face)

1"

rain tab

To miter cut corners

For best results, make sure you cut all J-channels to the proper length, leaving the proper allowance for the width of the face of the J-channel.

Square cut the bottom J-channel so that its ends extend beyond the window casing to the width of the face of the side J-channels.

Notch the ends for clearance. Position and nail the J-channel.

Measure the side J-channels, adding the width of both the top and bottom J-channels. Miter cut (45?? angle) the lower ends of both side J-channels. Notch the channel to form a rain tab, position it and nail.

Cut and bend rain tabs. Position and nail.

NOTE: You can create blind miters on a J-channel using a

J-channel cutter.

measure window and subtract 1/2" (leaving 1/4" per side as shown)

vertical pieces: place the uppermost nail in top of nail slot (still loose nailed)

1/4"

1/4"

window or door frame

remaining vertical nails and all horizontal nails: place in center of slots

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Lineal Starter Application for Windows and Door Surrounds

When securing window and corner starter strips, outside corner pieces (OSCP), inside corner pieces (ISCP), one piece corners, lineals???basically, any vertically mounted siding product???always place the top nail (or staple) first, and in a manner that allows the part to hang from it without dropping. This promotes movement downward only, a must for a good corner joint. This is the only time you should not center a nail (or staple). It is also preferred to use the nail slots closest to the locking area (when using product with double nail slots).

Remember to place the nails for the horizontal pieces in the center of the nailing slots as shown. Space nails 8" to 10" apart.

1/2" J-channel

wall (substrate)

door opening

inverted metal starter

Using a 1/2" J-channel as a starter for lineals

NOTE: Slide the lineals on from either end of the J-channel (the lineal will not snap over the J-channel as with a New Construction Starter Strip), or pull the J-channel away from the window slightly and zip the lineal into place.

If the opening has no framework, such as a brick molding, use the metal starter (illustrated below left), or the Remodeling Window and Door Starter (illustrated below) in place of the New Construction Window and Door Starter Strip shown above. The lineal???s locking leg will fit behind the aluminum starter and into the receiving pocket of the Remodeling Window and Door Starter.

remodeling window and door starter

position of nail

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

3-1/2"

remove

45?? 3-1/2"

cut for rain tab

back-side

view of mitered lineal

rain tab

Lineal Application around Windows

Measure the top of the opening and add 7" (3-1/2" extra for each side) if the side lineals are also 3-1/2". Add 10" total if using 5" lineals.

Use a triangle to create a 45?? angle or measure 3-1/2" in from the locking leg.

NOTE: The nail flange is always the longest part of a surrounding miter.

Use snips to remove the part as shown.

Cut a 3/4" rain tab (as shown).

Snap the completed top lineal into the previously attached starter strip.

NOTE: The bottom miter of side lineals has the same cut as both ends of a top lineal.

1/2"

window or door frame

3-1/2"

3/4"

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Measure the height of the window or door. Add 7" (for the 3-1/2" header and bottom lineal) and cut.

NOTE: Add additional material if using 5" lineals.

Trim a minimum of 3/4" from the top end of the side lineals.

view of above notches from back side of lineal

rain tab shown bent into receiving pocket of side lineal

window frame

Snap the side lineals into place, making sure the rain tabs of the top lineal are bent down into the receiving pocket of the side lineals.

If the lineal surrounds a window frame, the bottom corner requires a 45?? miter as done previously for the top lineal.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

window frame

3-1/2"

3/4"

3/4"

view of notching from back side (same on both ends)

Measure the bottom of the opening and add 7" (3-1/2" extra for each side) if the side lineals are also 3-1/2". Add 10" total if using 5" lineals.

Trim 3/4" tabs from the lineal as shown.

5" lineal

flashing

new construction starter strip

dual undersill trim

Hand punch horizontal siding (locking area has been removed). Siding panel locks

into dual undersill trim.

Butt dual undersill trim upward against the bottom of the flashing

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

1/8" per side

make 1" cuts

Corner Blocks

Corner block

Install 1/2" J-channel as a starter. Measure and cut the side lineals to the exact size of the window or door opening.

Cut the top and bottom lineals 1/4" longer than the window.

Using vinyl snips, make two 1" long cuts in the pocket areas on both sides of each lineal. These cuts allow the lineals to connect with the corner block and help provide proper drainage.

NOTE: It may be helpful to hold off securing the lineals until the corner block is in place.

Position the corner block by inserting the top lineal into the corner block???s receiving area???making sure the lineal???s pocket is inside that of the corner block.

Position the vertical (side) lineal into the corner block by inserting the pocket of the corner cover into the pocket of the lineal.

This will ensure proper drainage.

2-5/16"

2-5/16"

rosette center (back

Corner block with rosette

Locate the small dimple on the back side of the block???s face or measure 2-5/16" as shown and mark.

Drill or punch a 3/32" to 1/8" diameter hole through the face of the block???the hole must not be larger than 1/8".

NOTE: Check the back side of the block for this location??? marked by ???+???.

Apply the rosette clip from the backside. If desired, a small amount

side)

rosette clip

of caulk can be applied over the hole prior to applying the rosette.

cut crown molding cap in half

2" rain tab

window flashing

window or door frame

insert cap (see above for instructions on assembling the cap)

2" rain tab

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Crown Molding and Cap for 3/4" Pocket J-Channel

You will need:

???Crown molding

???Crown molding end caps

???3/4" pocket J-channel header and surround

To use crown molding with 3/4" pocket J-channels, measure the length of the completed J-channel surround and add 2-1/2" (the crown molding overlaps the J-channels by 1-1/4" per side).

Insert the crown molding cap into the crown molding and trace the tip shape. Trim as shown.

Insert 1/2 of the crown molding cap into each end of the crown molding lineal. Secure the crown molding with a bead of caulk.

Miter or square cut the J-channel (mitered corner is shown). Insert the 3/4" wide rain tab into the receiving channel of the side J-channel.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

5" lineal header

1/16" to 1/8" per side

window or door frame

3-1/2" lineal

2-1/4"

Crown Molding with Cap for 5" Header Lineal

Crown molding with 5" header and 3-1/2" surrounds.

Determine the header length by measuring from the outside of both side lineals and adding 1/16" to 1/8" per side for overlap.

To cut the crown molding, add 2-1/2" to the previously determined header length (1-1/4" added per side).

To create the header end cap, cut a 9-1/4" piece of 5" lineal and trim as shown.

the crown molding requires a rain tab 2" long???cut from the pocket receiver

apply the crown molding to the header with a bead of caulk

cut in half

finished assembly

rain tab to divert water from crown molding to side lineals

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Insert a crown molding cap into the crown molding and trace the shape. Trim as shown.

Insert the header cap.

Cut the crown molding cap in half. Apply each half to the end of the crown molding and secure it with a bead of caulk.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

nail with fin facing up

push snap leg of band board into cornice receiver

Band Board

Installing Band Board

Before you begin, determine where the last course of siding will end. Nail cornice receiver loosely every 8" to 10", with the nailing fin facing up. Keep the cornice receiver straight as it establishes the line for the Band Board.

Install the last course of siding 1/4" below the cornice receiver.

If necessary, trim the top of the siding panel to fit below the cornice receiver. With a nail slot punch, punch nail slots 16" apart, 1/4" from the panel???s upper edge. Nail through the center of the holes for a loose fit between the panel surface and the nail heads.

Cut Band Board to length, allowing for clearance between the Band Board ends and the trim for expansion and contraction. Push the snap leg of the Band Board into the cornice receiver. Nail the Band Board loosely every 10" to 12".

Fitting into trim pieces

The Band Board is designed to fit into 1-1/4" J-channel, pocket corners, and lineal accessories.

For lengths less than 12', allow 1/4" gap between the ends and the trim at temperatures above 40??F; allow 3/8" gap at temperatures below 40??F.

For lengths greater than 12', allow 3/8" gap between the ends and the trim at temperatures above 40??F; allow 1/2" gap at temperatures below 40??F.

When using the Band Board in installations with accessories that DO NOT have a 1-1/4" pocket, be sure to allow clearance between the two pieces for expansion. Trim a short section of Band Board to create an end cap for these applications.

Installing siding above Band Board

There are two ways to continue siding above the Band Board:

???For horizontal siding, use a starter strip. Position the starter strip above the Band Board enough to allow the siding return leg to engage the starter strip.

???For vertical siding, use J-channel. Align the nail slots of the J-channel with the nail slots of the Band Board.

NOTE: When nailing a starter strip, avoid pinning the Band Board. The Band Board must be allowed to expand and contract freely.

2

2-3/4"???3"

3

4

5

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Overlapping two pieces of Band Board

Only factory-cut edges can be used create a lap seam. The adhesive begins approximately 2" back from the end of the foam.

For the underside piece, measure back 1-1/2" from the end of the vinyl. Cut back 1-1/2" of foam and remove the bottom portion of the rear return and snap leg. Slip the vinyl edge of the bottom portion of the seam between the foam and the vinyl panel. Slide two pieces together, overlapping them 1-1/4", leaving a 1/4" gap between the foam for expansion.

Creating end caps for Band Board

To create end caps for Band Board:

1.Cut 1/8" off the bottom of a piece of Band Board, leaving a piece that is 7-1/8" wide.

2.Remove the foam from the back of the piece.

3.Then, cut the piece down so that it is 2-3/4"???3" wide. The nail hem will be either left or right, as the insert can be used for either side.

4.With the nail hem to the side, insert the cut piece between the foam and the Band Board. This will form a tight fit, but it may be necessary to glue or caulk at the point where the Band Board meets the cut piece.

NOTE: Depending upon the corner system you are using, you may have to trim the nail hem to fit.

Remove this corner (dimension dependent on 1/2" minimum shown below)

3/4"

Measure and notch 1-1/2"

Measure at least 1-1/2" and notch with snips

45??

Dotted line represents the position of a 45?? mitered 5" lineal

cornice molding

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

90??

90??

1"

3/4"

Installing J-Channel as Gable End Trim

Install J-channel to receive siding at gable ends, as shown in the illustration. To create a clean, professional look, follow these steps:

To create an angle template, hold a piece of J-channel against the slope while transferring the angle to another J-channel with a pencil.

Next, transfer the angle of the template to the end of a length of J-channel. Be sure to extend the line onto the nail flange. Cut away the channel face and the nail flange.

Turn the pattern over and transfer the opposite angle to the second J-channel, being sure to extend the line onto the nail flange. Cut away the nail flange and return lip, but do not cut the J-channel face.

Insert the full-faced J-channel into the mitered J-channel. If the nail flange or return lips butt and prevent a tight fit, trim off additional material from the second J-channel.

NOTE: For a more decorative appearance, you also can use 3-1/2" or 5" lineals to trim gable ends (see next page for details).

To splice the J-channel, follow these steps:

Cut out a 1" section of the nailing flange and face return as shown.

Install inverted J-channel along the top of the wall, under the eave. Here again, leave a 1/4" gap between the J-channel and the cornerposts. Overlap the J-channel 3/4" to allow for expansion. When positioning the upper J-channel, be sure to allow for expansion of the siding panel. In most cases, position

the J-channel at a point equal to the length of the panel plus 5/8" (1/4" for upper expansion and 3/8" for lower expansion).

90??

90??

starter strip

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Using Lineals as Gable Trim

You can give gable end trim a more dramatic appearance by using 3-1/2" or 5" lineals instead of J-channel.

To install the lineals:

Make a pattern duplicating the gable slope. To create an angle template, lock a piece of lineal into the previous course of siding or other gable starter. Hold a second piece of lineal or starter against the slope and transfer the angle with a pencil.

Transfer the angle of the template to the end of a length of lineal. Cut away the lineal face and nail flange.

Turn the pattern over and transfer the opposite angle to the second lineal. Trim the nail flange and receiving channel from the opposite lineal to this line. Do not cut the lineal face.

Insert the full-faced lineal into the mitered lineal. If the nail flange or return lips butt and prevent a tight fit, trim off additional material from the second lineal.

Installing trim at roof line

To prevent water infiltration along the intersection of roof and wall, install flashing before installing J-channel. At points where vinyl siding and accessories will meet at a roof line???such as areas where a gable dormer or a second story side wall intersect with the roof ???it???s best to position the J-channel so it is a minimum of 1/2" away from the roof line. Placing the J-channel directly on the roof line will subject it to a build-up of heat, which could result

in excessive expansion.

NOTE: If you use more than one length of J-channel to span a wall surface, be sure to overlap them 3/4".

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

flashing

shim corners to create proper pocket height

optional J-Pocket

flashing

measure width of window for first piece

top of window

bottom of window

measure from left side of trim to right side of trim

Using Restoration Millwork?? in Place of

Vinyl Accessories

Installing outside corners

Flash the corners of the home by bending a 20" wide piece of aluminum trim coil 90?? so you have two 10" legs. Cover the entire length of the corner, lapping the upper pieces over the lower pieces. (Self-adhering flashing may be substituted for trim coil. Follow manufacturer???s installation instructions and observe local building code requirements.)

Position the outside cornerpost with the top of the post 1/8" from the underside of the eave and the bottom of the cornerpost 3/4" below the starter strip. Make sure posts are straight and true before fastening. For advice regarding fastening, please refer to ???Restoration Millwork Installation Guidelines??? (RM003), available online or where Restoration Millwork is sold.

NOTE: It may be necessary to shim or furr out the corners and/or window casings to get the proper pocket height. Always use shimming/furring materials, like Restoration Millwork, that will not rot or decay.

Installing Trimboards around windows

Flash the window according to the manufacturer???s specifications. Once the opening is properly flashed, begin by measuring

the width of the bottom edge of the window and, using this measurement, cut the first section of Restoration Millwork. Apply this piece to the bottom of the window, verifying each end of the section lines up with the edge of the window prior to fastening.

To determine the length of the trim along the sides of the window, measure each side of the window starting at the top of the window and dropping down to the bottom edge of the first piece of millwork applied. Using these measurements, cut the second and third sections of Restoration Millwork. Apply these pieces to the left and right sides of the window, verifying that the top edge of each section lines up with the top of the window and the bottom edge of each section lines up with the bottom edge of the first piece of trim already applied.

To determine the length of the top piece of trim, begin at the left side of the left piece of trim and measure to the right side of the right piece of trim. This measurement should equal the width of the window plus two times the actual width of the trimboards being applied. Cut the final piece of trim and apply it at the top of the window, again verifying that the left and right edges of the cut section line up with the left and right edges of the trimboards in place at the sides of the window.

Once the top section of millwork is in place, apply flashing in compliance with local building codes.

factory notches

1"

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Cutting Panels

To cut panels to size, follow these procedures:

Cross cuts

For a precise cut, use a power circular saw equipped with a sharp, fine-tooth plywood blade. For best results, reverse blade direction.

Cut one or two panels at a time, carefully advancing the saw through the vinyl. A rule of thumb: The lower the temperature, the slower the feed rate.

Panels can also be cut with snips. Use a square to mark the cut line. Start the cut at the top lock and continue to the bottom of the panel.

Rip cuts

Use a utility knife to score the panel along the cut line. Bend the panel back and forth along the score line until it snaps apart cleanly.

Use a combination of tin snips and utility knife to cut panels to fit around windows and doors.

Carolina Beaded factory notches

Overlapping Panels

Refer to the chart on page 35/36 for required overlap spacing.

NOTE: Whenever you cut a panel to be used in an overlap area, you also have to duplicate the factory notch at both the top and bottom of the cut end.

NOTE: The Carolina Beaded panel is factory-notched in three places. For best results, overlap panels using factory notched ends only. If a panel must be cut on site, insert cut ends into receiving channels in cornerposts or J-channel. If this isn???t possible, create an exact duplicate of notches using aviation or tin snips.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Preparing Wall Surfaces

The key to successful vinyl siding application is proper preparation of the nailing surface. It is essential that you work over a smooth nailing surface. The more level and even the wall surface, the better the finished installation will look.

The steps involved in preparation differ for new homes and old, so choose the instructions (page 28 to 33) that pertain to your project.

Installing the first course

It???s important to work with care and planning as you install siding panels. This is especially true when you???re installing the first course of siding. (See pages 33 to 35 for fastening methods.)

For best results, follow these guidelines:

The key to creating a visually attractive installation is to lap away from areas where people normally walk or gather. For example, on the front wall, work from the corners to the entrance door (so overlaps face away from door).

On side walls, work from the rear corners toward the front. This approach minimizes the effect of lapping and produces the best appearance. Keep lap appearance in mind throughout installation.

NOTE: Lap appearance is also improved when you avoid using panels less than 3' long.

Slide the first panel into the cornerpost recess. Leave room for expansion (see page 35-36 for spacing requirements).

Hook the bottom lock of the panel into the interlock bead of the starter strip by applying upward pressure.

Before nailing, double check to make certain you???ve locked the panel along its entire length. A slight upward pressure may be required to snap the interlock securely. Don???t force the lock too tightly, however. You may distort your laps. Nail properly. Also, make certain the panel can slide freely. Start at the center of the panel and work out.

Install the remaining starter course panels, overlapping panel ends (see pages 35-36 for overlapping requirements). The last nail should be at least 4" from the end of the panel to allow for a neat lap.

Remember to leave room for expansion when fitting panels into remaining inside and outside cornerposts.

sheathing

starter strip or J-channel

flashing

mortar

1/4"

1/4"

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Transitioning from brick, stone, or stucco to vinyl siding

To transition from brick, stone, or stucco to vinyl siding:

???Caulk where the sheathing meets the brick, stone, or stucco. Caulk the flashing, and make sure a drip cap is in place.

???Use J-channel or starter strip to receive the siding when installing horizontal siding, If you use starter strip, leave 3/8" clearance so that the siding can engage securely.

???When installing vertical siding, use J-channel to receive the siding.

Installing remaining courses

To ensure best appearance, position the laps to avoid unsightly joint patterns. The illustration at left shows a well-planned staggering of panel joints. Follow these guidelines:

???Separate joints by at least two courses.

???Avoid joints above and below windows.

???Leave at least 3' separating joints on successive courses.

???Use short cutoff lengths for fitting at narrow openings between windows.

???Follow the planned pattern when applying the next courses of siding.

Fitting under windows

You???ll probably have to cut panels to fit under windows.

To make this task easier, plan panel positioning as shown at left so a single panel extends beyond both sides of window opening. Follow these steps to measure and cut panels:

Hold the panel in place and mark the width of the window opening. Add 1/4"???3/8" to both ends to allow for expansion. The resulting marks show the location of vertical cuts. Extend the marks onto the panel using a square.

Create a template for the horizontal cut using a small piece of scrap siding. Lock this piece into the lower panel and mark 1/4" below the sill height. This provides clearance for undersill trim. Repeat the procedure on the opposite side of the window. (You can???t assume windows will be perfectly level.)

Transfer the marks from the template to the panel. Connect marks using a straightedge.

Cut the panel, using tin snips to make vertical cuts and a utility knife to make the horizontal cut.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

installing trimmed panels with dual undersill trim

Install panel

If necessary to maintain the slope angle, install furring under the sill as described on pages 31 to 32.

NOTE: You can eliminate this step by using dual undersill trim. This trim has two receiving channels. Use the inner channel

if you???ve cut the siding panel near the locking edge. Use the outer channel if the cut has been made near the butt edge.

Use a snap lock punch to raise tab faces on the outside of the panel. Punch out a tab every 6".

Push the horizontal edge of the cut into utility trim. Slide vertical edges of cut into J-channels at window sides. Make certain the installed panel locks into the panel below.

Fitting over windows and doors

The procedure for cutting panels for installation over windows and doors is similar to that explained earlier.

If necessary to maintain the slope angle, install furring above the window or door as explained on pages 31 to 32.

Drop the panel into position, making certain it fits into the undersill trim and J-channel at the top and J-channel at the sides. Interlock the panel with the siding panels below.

Fitting at narrow openings between windows

To simplify installation in areas such as that shown in the illustration, install J-channel on both sides of opening.

Bow the panel toward you and slip it into the channel.

If the area is very narrow, leave one J-channel unnailed except at the lowest point (as shown). Bend this channel out slightly to insert panel. When the panel is in place and nailed, nail the J-channel immediately above the panel and repeat the procedure. Be sure to leave adequate tolerances for expansion and contraction.

distance minus 1/4"

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Fitting at gable ends

Make a pattern duplicating the gable slope. Use this pattern to guide the cutting of panels to fit gable ends.

To make pattern:

Lock a short piece of siding into the panel gable starter course as shown in the illustration.

Hold a second piece of siding against the J-channel at the slope.

Run a pencil along edge of this piece, transferring the slope angle to the first piece of siding.

Cut along the line using a power saw or tin snips. Use the resulting pattern to mark siding panels before cutting.

NOTE: Double-check the angle on the pattern at every course. If necessary, cut a new pattern.

To install cut panels:

Slip the angled end of the panel into J-channel along the gable edge. Leave space for expansion.

Interlock with the siding panel below.

If necessary to securely fasten the last panel at the gable peak, face nail as shown in illustration. This is the only place you will face nail. Use a 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" aluminum nail with painted head.

NOTE: Do not cover louvers in gables.

Fitting under soffit

When you reach the last course of siding, you will probably have to rip cut panels lengthwise to fit under soffit.

NOTE: If necessary to ensure proper panel slope angle, make certain to furr out this area.

To cut and install this last course:

Install J-channel and undersill trim or dual undersill trim.

Measure from the soffit to the base of upper lock on the previous course of panels. Subtract 1/4". Mark this dimension on the panel to be cut, taking the measurement from the bottom edge of panel. For a more precise cut, repeat this procedure at several other points along the span to be covered by the panel.

Using a square or straightedge, draw a pencil line connecting these points. Then score along the line with a utility knife. Bend the panel back and forth until it snaps. Use a snap lock punch to create tabs on the outside face of the panel, 1/4" below the cut edge. Space tabs every 6".

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

1/4" from edge

1/4" to 3/8" for expansion

light block mounting bracket

To install, lock the bottom of the cut panel into the panel below. Push the top edge into J-channel or undersill trim. Tabs will catch in the trim and hold the panel firmly in place.

NOTE: Since you will not nail this last course, it is important that the tabs fit properly in the trim to provide support while allowing movement for expansion.

Finishing the top course

To finish the top course of siding, attach cornice receiver to the top of the wall under the eave or soffit. Trim the top panel to within 1/4" of the cornice receiver. Using a nail slot punch, punch nail slots 1/4" from the trimmed edge of the siding panel, 16" apart. Nail

off the top course, and snap the cornice molding into the cornice receiver. An alternate method is to use J-channel and furring strips.

Completion

Attaching objects to siding

All external products (downspouts, shutters, and lights, for example) are attached to walls after you???ve applied the vinyl siding.

NOTE: All external fixtures must be attached to a solid backing (such as 3/4" exterior grade plywood) to provide a secure mounting surface. Never attach a fixture directly to vinyl siding.

When installing external products, you must allow for expansion and contraction of siding.

You can allow for this movement in two ways:

The most convenient way to attach light fixtures is with light blocks. Because they contain receiving channels to hold siding panels, light blocks provide a simple way to allow for expansion.

When attaching other fixtures, drill holes in the siding 1/4" larger than the diameter of screws, bolts, or nails being used to fasten objects. This provides adequate clearance so the siding can move freely underneath attached objects. When attaching objects, do not fasten tightly. It is also recommended that you apply caulk around the screws.

Fitting at light blocks

When cutting panels to fit at a light block, be sure to allow for expansion.

a

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Shutter Installation

The ideal application (a) has a joint between the two shutters where the shutters are secured to the home. In this way, the siding panel is not ???hard nailed??? between the two shutters and the siding is allowed free movement.

When there is no joint between the shutters and when the shutters are secured to the home (b), the shutters??? fasteners do not

allow the siding panel to move. The siding panel then fails to perform because it cannot expand or contract with the temperature changes.

To prevent this, enlarge the holes in the siding for securing bthe shutter???the hole should be 1/4" larger than the shank

of the fastener.

If possible, stagger the screws securing the shutter so that they do not line up on the same panel. It is also a good idea to apply caulk around the screws.

NOTE: See page 76 for fitting siding into narrow openings.

upper edge of topmost nailing slot

Preparing Wall Surfaces

For the most part, the wall preparation instructions given for horizontal siding also apply to vertical applications. The key requirement, of course, is that you start with a smooth, level and rigid substrate (plywood, wood composite, rigid foam or fiber sheathing).

NOTE: Never install vinyl siding over open furring strips or studs. Always check with your local building code official.

1/2" foam sheathing

always position topmost nail in topmost full nail slot with vertical applications

center nail in slots

With vertical siding, however, you may have to complete an extra step to provide solid nailing points along the vertical edge of the siding panel. The need for this added step depends on the type of substrate used and the nature of the construction project.

With new construction or remodeling using plywood or wood composite, there are no additional steps. You can nail into plywood and wood composite substrates at any point as long as you do not exceed 12" on center.

In new construction using rigid foam or fiber sheathing, you must install solid wood nailer strips horizontally to studs before applying sheathing. Use 1" x 3" wood furring positioned 12" o.c.

When remodeling over existing wood siding, you must apply rigid foam or fiber sheathing, shimming if necessary to create a level surface.

When remodeling over brick, block, stucco or irregular wall surfaces, apply furring strips horizontally to create a level surface; then apply rigid foam or fiber sheathing. See ???Tips for applying wood furring??? on pages 31 to 32 and ???Applying over stucco???

on page 32. When reviewing the illustrations for those sections, remember that furring strips must be applied horizontally.

Marking a base line

The procedure is virtually the same as that described earlier. However, instead of snapping a chalk line 2-1/4" above the low point, snap it 1" above the low point.

NOTE: When installing vertical siding in high wind areas, position the fasteners at the top two nail slots of the panel.

See pages 130 to 132 for installing CedarBoards Insulated Vertical siding.

F-channel

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Cornerposts

Install outside and inside cornerposts using dimensions and procedures described on pages 38???41.

NOTE: Unlike the preparation for horizontal siding, do not install a starter strip for vertical siding.

Top and Bottom J-Channel

Snap a base line 1" above the low part of the house. Apply J-channel along the top and bottom of the walls to receive the siding panels. Install the bottom J-channel

(illustration 1A). Overlap J-channels 3/4". To do this, cut out a 1" section of the nailing flange and face return (see illustration 2).

If you prefer to use drip flashing with the J-channel along the bottom of the wall, fabricate the lengths you???ll need from aluminum coil stock of a color to match the siding (see illustration 1B).

3/4"

Install inverted J-channel along the top of the wall, under the eave. Here again, leave a 1/4" gap between J-channel and cornerposts. Overlap J-channels 3/4" to allow for expansion. When positioning the upper J-channel, be sure to allow for expansion of the siding panel. In most cases, position the J-channel at a point equal to the length of the panel plus 5/8" (1/4" for upper expansion and 3/8" for lower expansion).

Soffit

If you???re going to install soffit, you may want to install the receiving channels for the soffit at this point.

The illustrations show alternative approaches for installing siding and soffit receiving channels.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

If a wall requires more than one course of siding, you can proceed in one of three ways:

Use two lengths of J-channel, back-to-back, at the joint between the two courses (illustration a).

Use a combination of one length of J-channel and one length of drip cap (illustration b).

Use a double channel lineal and flashing where required.

If using J-Channel

Snap a chalk line parallel to the bottom J-channel, at a height equal to the length of the lower panel plus an allowance for expansion. For example, if the lower panel is 144" long and you???re adding 1/2" for expansion (because the temperature is above 40??F), you strike a line 144-1/2" from the bottom J-channel. Nail inverted J-channel along this line to receive panels from below. Leave a 1/4" gap between J-channel and cornerposts. Overlap the J-channels 3/4".

Prepare for the second course by applying head flashing above the just-installed J-channel. Then nail J-channel over the flashing to receive the upper panel.

NOTE: Some installers prefer to use formed aluminum flashing in place of vinyl drip cap as the receiving channel for the lower panel. This is also an acceptable approach.

J-Channel at Gable Ends

Follow the procedure described earlier under the section ???Preparation for Horizontal Siding??? beginning on page 28.

If using double channel lineal: Measure the length of the lower panel, then add an allowance for expansion. Snap a chalk line parallel to the bottom J-channel, at a height equal to your

measurement. Position the lineal so the interior peak of the lower channel runs along the chalk line. Leave a minimum 3/8" gap between lineal and cornerposts when the ambient temperature is higher than 40??F. When the ambient temperature is below 40??F, leave a 1/2" gap.

If necessary, overlap lineals 1-1/4".

Allow for 1/3 of expansion

1A

1B

Allow for 2/3 of expansion

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Wall Panels

Follow the instructions described earlier under the section ???Preparation for Horizontal Siding??? beginning on page 28.

Plan the panel layout

Correctly installed vertical siding should have a balanced appearance. This means that if you were to draw a vertical line down the center point of a wall, you???d have an equal number of panels to the right and left. If you had to trim panels to fit, the end-most panels would be of identical width.

To create this pleasing appearance, divide the space to be covered by a partial panel over both ends of a wall. For example, if a wall required 25 full panels plus 10", you would rip cut two 5" lengths of panel to create the end pieces.

Expansion and contraction

In a vertical siding installation, most of the expansion is downward. So instead of allowing equal space for expansion at both ends of a vertical panel, leave more space at the lower end: allow for 1/3 of the total expansion at the top of a panel and 2/3 of the total expansion at the bottom.

For example, if the total expansion equals 3/4" (3/8" + 3/8"), allow 1/4" at the top and 1/2" at the bottom. If the total expansion equals 1/2" (1/4" + 1/4"), allow 3/16" at the top and 5/16" at

the bottom.

NOTE: Always position top most nail at the top of the top most full nail slot (1a). Center the remaining nails in the slots (1b). When installing siding or accessories vertically, make sure the bottom of the panel can expand downward without interference.

Cut the first of the partial panels (if partial panels are necessary). Mark the cut line by measuring from the nail hem edge. Rip cut the panel. Do not cut off the nail hem. Use a snap lock punch to create locking tabs along the cut edge. Space the tabs 6" apart.

Before installing this partial panel into the outside cornerpost, provide additional support at the cut edge to compensate for the locking channel that was trimmed off.

To do this, insert furring into the channel of the outside cornerpost and nail it to the substrate. After furring, insert a length of undersill trim into the cornerpost and nail it to the furring. Finally, slide the cut edge of the panel into the undersill trim, making sure to engage the snap locks (see illustration).

Using a level, make certain this panel is plumb. Nail every 12". Follow the same nailing procedures described for horizontal siding.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

plumb line

Install the next panel. Lock the panel into the preceding panel, then nail every 12". Continue with succeeding panels.

When necessary, cut panels to fit around doors and windows. When marking the cut, remember to allow for expansion.

The method used to install panels around doors and windows is determined by the need to cut a panel and the position of that cut. If a cut was made next to a remaining V-groove, insert the panel into the J-channel. If a cut removes the support provided by a V-groove, use the procedure described above to provide support for the trimmed edge.

To finish the first course of a wall, cut the final panel to size and install it in an outside cornerpost, using the method described above.

NOTE: The cutting and supporting procedure described above is also used when fitting panels into inside cornerposts.

Installing Gable End Panels

When installing vertical or Board & Batten siding on a gable end wall, you should try to create a balanced appearance.

There are two ways to do this:

You can start from the center of the wall and work toward the sides. Begin by finding the center point of the wall (beneath the peak) and draw a plumb line. Nail two lengths of J-channel, back to back, along this line. Be sure to flash underneath the J-channel to help prevent water damage due to water seepage between the J-channels. Cut the upper end of the first panel to the proper height and slope. Remember to allow for expansion.

NOTE: To guide the cutting of the upper end of the panel, make a pattern duplicating the gable slope. (See page 67.)

Insert the panel into the J-channel along the gable slope.

Use a level to make certain the panel is plumb. Nail every 12". Continue cutting and installing panels. Then repeat the procedure on the remaining half of the gable end.

If you want to work from one end of the wall to the other, begin by centering a panel under the center of the peak. Mark the position of the panel on the wall, then measure the distance from the left (or right) cornerpost to mark for the left (or right) edge of the center panel.

If you need a partial panel, cut it and install it at the cornerpost, following the procedure described on page 83. Cut the upper end of the panels to proper height and slope, following the procedure described above. Remember to allow for expansion.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Soffit

You can use solid vinyl panels or perforated vinyl panels for soffit installations. Perforated panels provide ventilation, which helps to reduce heat buildup in the summer and ice dams in the winter. In buildings with roof ridge vents, you should install ventilated soffit. Check local building codes to determine the amount of ventilation required. In high windload areas, you should also check local building codes to determine if the application methods that are required differ from those described below.

The procedure used to install soffit depends on the construction of the eaves:

???Open eaves???eaves with exposed rafters or trusses???are typical of new construction. You will also have to use open eave installation procedures if you have to remove damaged soffit at a remodeling project.

???Enclosed eaves???eaves with soffit in place???are typical of remodeling projects.

Installation over open eaves

fascia cap

Fig. 3

The first step in installing soffit is to install the proper receiving channels. You have several options for receiving channels. You can use accessories such as F-channel or J-channel, or you can make channels using coil stock. The best approach is to select a method

or coil

stock open rafter

F-channel

soffit

16" to 24"

Fig. 4

add nailing strips add

framing

soffit J-channel 16" to 24"

To determine the maximum permissible span, consult page 89 and local building codes.

that works most effectively with the construction techniques used to create the eave. Examine figures 1 to 4 and find the one that most closely resembles the construction methods used on your particular project.

If no F-channel is available, J-channel can be modified to create F-channel. Simply cut slots in the nail flange area where it would be nailed to the wall. After cutting the nail flange, bend the flange back and nail it to the wall. When installing Beaded T2" panels, use 3/8" H-bar or 3/8" J-channel.

Installing receiving channels

Install the receiving channels following the details shown in figures 1 to 4. Nail the channels every 16", positioning the nail in the center of the slot. Do not nail tightly.

If the eave span is greater than 16", you will have to install nailing strips (as shown in figure 4) and install the receiving channels on the nailing strips.

If the soffit will turn a corner, cut and install the channel so there is 1/4" for expansion at each of the adjoining walls.

fascia

soffit panels

fascia cap or

coil stock nail into slot

nail into ???v???

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

NOTE: If you don???t have the proper receiver for the soffit, you can modify J-channel to create an F-receiver. Simply cut slots in the nail flange area where the receiver will be nailed to the wall, bend back the flange, and nail the flange to the wall.

Installing soffit

Measure from the wall to the fascia board. Then subtract 1/2" to allow for expansion. Mark this dimension on a soffit panel and cross cut the panel using a power circular saw with a reversed fine-tooth blade. Cut one or two panels at a time, carefully advancing the saw through the vinyl.

Insert the panel into the channel on the wall, then into the channel at the fascia board. You may have to flex the panel slightly to insert it into the second channel. Make certain the panel is perpendicular to the wall, then nail. Depending on the installation method you???re using, you???ll nail either to a nailing strip or to the fascia board.

Nailing schedule for soffit

If you???re nailing to the fascia board, use small-headed nails. Drive the nail through the nail flange and ???V??? groove.

This is one of the rare instances when face nailing is permissible. Once a soffit panel is face-nailed, it will expand only in one direction???in this case, toward the receiving channel.

Be sure to leave space for the full expansion allowance in the receiving channel.

If you???re using a nailing strip, do not nail tightly???allow movement for expansion.

Continue installing the panels by locking and nailing the soffit in place. Make certain soffit panels are fully locked along their entire length.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

soffit

H-bar

fascia

miter soffit panels

Turning a corner

To turn a corner, measure from the channel at the wall corner to the channel at the corner of the fascia board. Subtract 1/4" for expansion. If necessary, install nailing strips to provide backing for the lineal. Cut and install soffit double channel lineal or H-bar. Miter the corner soffit panels and install as described earlier.

Completing the installation

To complete the installation, apply utility trim and fasten aluminum fascia cap or formed aluminum coil stock with painted trim nails. If you must face nail fascia, drill holes for the trim nails to allow for expansion and to reduce denting of the aluminum.

Installation over enclosed eaves

If the existing soffit is rotted or damaged, it???s best to remove it completely before installing vinyl soffit. Then use the instructions for open eaves.

If you???re installing perforated soffit panels and the existing soffit doesn???t have openings for ventilation, cut an adequate number of openings. Then complete the installation as described for open eaves.

The procedure used to install soffit over an enclosed eave is almost identical to that used for an open eave. The major difference is the installation of the J-channel. Determine the method you???ll use to install soffit at the fascia board (see figures 5 and 6). When installing J-channel at either the wall or the fascia board, nail the J-Channel every 12" to 16".

Turning a corner

If the soffit is to turn a corner, cut and install J-channel so there is 1/4" for expansion at each of the adjoining walls and adjoining fascia boards. Miter the corner soffit panels and install as described earlier.

fascia cap or coil stock

open rafter

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Triple 3-1/3 Solid, InvisiVent

and Perimeter Soffit

Installation over open eaves

In most situations, T3-1/3 Solid, InvisiVent and Perimeter Soffit should be installed like our standard soffit products. However, when it is installed over open eaves, follow these installation techniques.

Install receiving channels

There are two ways to install receiving channels for soffit. The best approach is to select a method that works most effectively with the construction techniques used to create the eave. Examine the illustrations, and find the one that most closely resembles the construction methods on your particular project.

F-channel

soffit

add framing

soffit J-channel

Use either 3/4" J-channel or 3/4" F-channel, or make receiving channels using coil stock. Install the receiving channels following the details shown in the illustrations.

Nail the channels every 12" to 16", positioning the nail in the center of the slot. Do not nail tightly.

NOTE: If you are concerned about excessive insect infiltration with InvisiVent or Perimeter Soffit, cover the opening with corrosion-resistant mesh or other screening before installing the soffit.

Install soffit

Nail the soffit every 16" or 24", depending upon local building codes and stud spacing. T3-1/3 soffit will span up to 24" without additional nailing strips.

Installation over existing soffit

When installing InvisiVent or Perimeter Soffit over an existing solid wood soffit, you must cut openings into the existing soffit to provide adequate airflow through the soffit. The goal is to have at least 9 square inches of net free air per lineal foot of soffit. Removing a center portion of the existing soffit will provide the desired airflow.

Using a saw, cut along the length of the existing soffit. Leave 2" to 3" from both the wall and the fascia so that you will have enough wood surface to securely fasten the soffit.

Remove the center portion of the existing soffit.

Install the soffit as described above.

NOTE: Leaving solid areas of existing soffit intact reduces ventilation and must be considered when calculating total ventilation.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

fascia board

nail in slot opening

1/8"

1-1/2" 3/4"

Vinyl Fascia

The wooden fascia board that encloses the front of an eave also needs protection from the weather. To provide this protection, you can install vinyl or aluminum fascia panels.

There are two procedures for installing vinyl fascia panels???one for installations that include soffit, one for installations without soffit.

Installations without soffit

Nail undersill trim in place along the top of the fascia board.

Before installing the panel, create tabs along the top edge using a snap lock punch.

Hook the bottom of the fascia panel under the bottom of the fascia board. Push the top edge into the undersill trim,

as shown, or behind drip edge.

Secure the panel to the bottom of the fascia board with white trim nails. Fasten at nail slot openings only (see illustration).

Do not face nail fascia panel.

When overlapping fascia panels, first cut a notch in the underlying panel. The notch should be 1/8" deep by 1-1/2" long. Slip the notched panel into the adjacent panel (see illustration).

To turn a corner, you must first fabricate a corner piece.

Cut a length of fascia panel so it extends 6" beyond the corner. Mark a vertical line to indicate the position of the corner. Then cut a 90?? V-notch centered on the vertical line. Score it along the vertical line and fold. Finally, create tabs along the upper edge with a snap lock punch. The tabs must be raised on the outside face of the panel.

Fit the panel on the corner, making sure to overlap the preceding panel.

snap lock punch

undersill trim

fascia board

F-channel

measure

minus 1/4"

1/8"

6"

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

For installations that include soffit

Nail the undersill trim in place along the top of the fascia board. Then nail F-channel along the bottom outside surface of the fascia board (shown).

The fascia panel will have to be rip cut to fit over the fascia board and F-channel. To determine the width of the panel, measure from the slot in the undersill trim to the bottom of the F-channel. Deduct 1/4" and cut (shown).

Use a snap lock punch to create tabs 1/8" below cut edge. Punch tabs every 6", with the tabs raised on the outside face of the panel.

Install the panel by hooking the bottom of the fascia panel under the F-channel and pushing the top into the undersill trim (shown).

Continue to install the fascia as described on the previous page.

Aluminum fascia

The techniques used to install aluminum fascia panels are similar to those used with vinyl???with three exceptions.

There is no special undersill trim to use with aluminum fascia. Aluminum fascia is made without nail slots, so you have to pay attention to proper nailing techniques. And corners are handled differently.

Install drip edge, gutter, or all-purpose trim along the top of the fascia board to receive the top edge of the fascia panel.

Slip the fascia panel in place. Then nail the underside of the panel. Nail every 24", keeping the nails lined up with the soffit V-grooves.

For best appearance, first drill a slightly oversized hole. Nail the fascia with painted trim nails, using a light touch.

At the outside corners, bend a 1" flange at a 90?? angle so it turns the corner. Then cut the overlapping fascia at a 45?? angle. Position the panels and nail.

NOTE: If you need a piece of nonstandard size fascia, use a portable brake to form it from aluminum trim sheet. Install and nail using the same techniques you used with standard fascia panels.

panel temperature indicator lines

???A???

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

NOTE: If two temperature cells on the PanelThermometer show a color change, use the brighter color as the indicator.

Each panel has a patented PanelThermometer??? that displays panel temperature and indicator lines that serve as guides for proper spacing between the panels. The PanelThermometer is located on the upper right-hand corner of the panel; the indicator lines are on the upper left-hand corner.

Note that the panel temperature may change throughout the day. Space the panels according to the panel temperature at the time of installation.

The cells on the PanelThermometer will change color to indicate the temperature of the panel.

If the brightest cell is between the numbered temperature cells, position the panel between the corresponding temperature indicator lines. Example: If the Panel-Thermometer reads 65, align the second panel to the 65 temperature indicator line on the first panel. If the cell between the 65 and 100 is brighter, position the panel between the 65 and 100 temperature indicator lines.

D7" Straight Edge Perfection Shingles

NOTE: Do not drive center-pin nails tight. Leave 1/8"???1/16" between the nail head and the panel to allow the panel to move freely during normal expansion and contraction.

First course

Strike a level line around the house and install Cedar Impressions Metal Starter.

If you plan to use Cedar Impressions Mitered Cornerpost, make sure the starter strip is installed to the edge of the corner. An alternative method of starting Cedar Impressions is to use J-channel in place of starter strip to receive the bottom edge

of the panel.

Cut the end of the top course of the panel at indicator ???A,??? which is located above the nail slots.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

PRO TIP: When installing Cedar Impressions over foam insulation, extra care needs to be taken to verify that adequate space is left between all nail heads and the panel.

quick reference nail mark indicators

Starting on the right side of the wall, hook the bottom locking leg of the panel into the starter strip and slide the panel into the cornerpost or receiving channel. Leave 1/4" space between the panel and the corner for expansion. If you are planning to install the Mitered Cornerpost, space the panel 3" from the corner.

Fasten the panel to the wall by first nailing through the round center hole in the nailing hem at the top of the panel. Continue nailing the panel with 5 nails: one in the right-end nail slot and one at each of the QuickReference??? Nail Mark Indicators. Leave 1/8" to 1/16" between the nail heads and the panel to allow freedom of movement during normal expansion and contraction.

Install the next panel by positioning it below the starter strip and next to the first panel. Push in and up to lock the panel into the starter strip and the side tabs of the first panel. Space the second panel according to the panel temperature at the corresponding temperature indicator lines.

Nail the panel into position starting with the round center hole and then placing the next nail in the right-end nail slot (which overlaps the previous panel???s left-end slot) so that the nail goes through both panels??? nail slots simultaneously. Continue nailing the rest

of the panel as described earlier.

Continue to install the remaining panels of the first course as described earlier.

When a window or doorway breaks a course, continue the application as if the opening were not there.

drill 3/16" dia. hole at midpoint of remaining panel

Second course

Cut off the right side of the D7 shingle at indicator ???B,??? which is located above the nail slots. Cut straight through the panel. Drill a 3/16" hole in the center of the nail hem and nail the siding through this hole to control the direction of expansion and contraction. Another option is to nail each end of a nail slot located at the center of the panel.

Starting on the right side of the wall, hook the bottom locking leg of the panel into the previous course and slide the panel into the cornerpost or receiving channel. Leave 1/4" space between the panel and the corner for expansion.

Set the spacing of the remaining panels using the PanelThermometer and temperature indicator lines.

Continue to stagger the panel courses, alternating each time to ensure a random shingle pattern up the wall.

bottom of locking tab

Cut off the top shingle and cut through

to form a straight edge

???A???

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Installing over a window or opening

Cut the panel to fit over the window by measuring from the locking tab of the previous row to the bottom of the receiving pocket. Add 1/8" to this measurement. Turn the panel over and, using this measurement, measure from the bottom of the return leg. Cut the panel to this dimension.

Install the cut panel by positioning the panel over the window and into the receiving pocket. Lock the cut panel into the previous course by pushing in and up. The cut edge should be 1/4" below the top of the receiving pocket.

Finishing the top course

See instructions on page 65.

Installing Cedar Impressions

Mitered Cornerpost

If you are planning to install Mitered Cornerposts, space the siding panel 3??? from the edge of the corner. Lock the first corner over the siding, making sure it also locks into the starter strip. Nail the corner through the top two nail slots.

NOTE: We recommend that your complete the first wall before installing the cornerpost. Then install the cornerpost as you install the courses of the second, adjacent wall.

T5" Straight Edge Perfection Shingles

Panel Spacing at Different Temperatures

See pages 94 to 95.

NOTE: Do not drive center-pin nails tight. Leave 1/8"???1/16" between the nail head and the panel to allow the panel to move freely during normal expansion and contraction.

First course

Strike a level line around the house and install Cedar Impressions Metal Starter Strip. If you plan to use Cedar Impressions Mitered Cornerposts, make sure the starter strip is installed to the edge of the corner. An alternative method of starting Cedar Impressions is to use J-channel in place of starter strip to receive the bottom edge of the panel.

Create a straight edge on the right side of the panel by cutting the top two shingles so they are flush with the bottom shingle.

Cut the end of the top course of the panel at indicator ???A,??? which is located above the nail slots.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

quick reference nail mark indicators

PRO TIP: When installing Cedar Impressions over foam insulation, extra care needs to be taken to verify that adequate space is left between all nail heads and the panel.

Starting on the right side of the wall, hook the bottom locking leg of the panel into the starter strip and slide the panel into the cornerpost or receiving channel. Leave 1/4" space between the panel and the corner for expansion. If you are planning to install the Mitered Cornerpost, space the panel 3" from the corner.

Fasten the panel to the wall by first nailing through the round center hole in the nailing hem at the top of the panel. Continue nailing the panel with 5 nails: one in the right-end nail slot and one at each of the QuickReference??? Nail Mark Indicators. Leave 1/8" to 1/16" between the nail heads and the panel to allow freedom of movement during normal expansion and contraction.

Install the next panel by positioning it below the starter strip and next to the first panel. Push in and up to lock the panel into the starter strip and the side tabs of the first panel. Space the second panel according to the panel temperature at the corresponding temperature indicator lines.

Nail the panel into position starting with the round center hole and then placing the next nail in the right-end nail slot (which overlaps the previous panel???s left-end slot) so that the nail goes through both panels??? nail slots simultaneously.

Continue installing the rest of the panel as described above.

When a window or doorway breaks a course, continue the application as if the opening were not there.

bottom of receiving channel

measure from the locking tab to the bottom of the receiving channel and add 1/8

bottom of locking tab

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Installing Cedar Impressions Mitered Cornerposts

If you are planning to install Mitered Cornerposts, space the siding panel 3" from the edge of the corner. Lock the first corner over the siding, making sure it also locks into the starter strip. Nail the corner through the top two nail slots.

NOTE: We recommend that your complete the first wall before installing the cornerpost. Then install the cornerpost as you install the courses of the second, adjacent wall.

Installing under a window or opening

Install Cedar Impressions undersill trim. Cut the panel to fit under the window. Drill a 3/16" hole in the upper center of the panel. Using a snap lock punch, raise tab faces on the outside of the panel 1/4" from the trimmed edge, 6" apart. Lock the panel into the previous course, and center nail the siding through the 3/16" hole drilled earlier. (Center nailing controls the direction of the panel???s expansion and contraction.) Lock the panel into place.

Installing over a window or opening

Cut the panel to fit over the window by measuring from the locking tab of the previous row to the bottom of the receiving pocket. Add 1/8" to this measurement. Turn the panel over and, using this measurement, measure from the bottom of the return leg. Cut the panel to this dimension.

Install the cut panel by positioning the panel over the window and into the receiving pocket. Lock the cut panel into the previous course by pushing in and up. The cut edge should be 1/4" below the top of the receiving pocket.

Finishing the top course

See instructions on page 65.

If you are installing cornice molding with Mitered Cornerposts, review the instructions for installing Cornice Cap with Mitered Cornerpost (page 106 to 107).

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

???A???

D9" Staggered Rough-Split Shakes

Panel Spacing at Different Temperatures

See pages 86 and 87.

Note: Do not drive center-pin nails tight. Leave 1/8"???1/16" between the nail head and the panel to allow the panel to move freely during normal expansion and contraction.

First course

If you are planning to use mitered corners, you MUST use an A + B cut pattern to start each course. This pattern ensures proper fit into mitered corners.

Strike a level line around the house and install Cedar Impressions Metal Starter. If you plan to use Mitered Cornerpost, make sure the starter strip is installed to the edge of the corner. An alternative method of starting Cedar Impressions is to use J-channel in place of starter strip to receive the bottom edge of the panel.

Create a straight edge on the right side of the panel by cutting the top shingle so it is flush with the bottom shingle. Cut the end of the top course of the panel at indicator ???A,??? which is located above the nail slots.

PRO TIP: When installing Cedar Impressions over foam insulation, extra care needs to be taken to verify that adequate space is left between all nail heads and the panel.

Starting on the right side of the wall, hook the bottom locking leg of the panel into the starter strip and slide panel into the corner- post or receiving channel. Leave 1/4" space between the panel and the corner for expansion. If you are planning to install the Mitered Cornerpost, space the panel 3" from the corner.

Fasten the panel to the wall by first nailing through the round center hole in the nailing hem at the top of the panel. Continue nailing the panel with 5 nails: one in the right-end nail slot and one at each of the QuickReference??? Nail Mark Indicators. Leave 1/8" to 1/16" between the nail heads and the panel to allow freedom of movement during normal expansion and contraction.

Install the next panel by positioning it below the starter strip and next to the first panel. Push in and up to lock the panel into the starter strip and the side tabs of the first panel. Space the second panel according to the panel temperature at the corresponding temperature indicator lines.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Second course

Cut off of the right side of the D9 shakes at indicator ???B,??? which is located above the nail slots, cutting straight through the panel. Drill a 3/16" hole in the center of the nail hem and nail the siding through this hole to control the direction of expansion and contraction. Another option is to nail each end of a nail slot located at the center of the panel.

Starting on the right side of the wall, hook the bottom locking leg of the panel into the previous course and slide the panel into the cornerpost or receiving channel. Leave 1/4" space between the panel and the corner for expansion.

Set the spacing of the remaining panels using the PanelThermometer and temperature indicator lines.

Continue to stagger panel courses, alternating each time to ensure a random shingle pattern up the wall.

Installing under a window or opening

Install Cedar Impressions undersill trim. Cut the panel to fit under the window. Drill a 3/16" hole in the upper center of the panel. Using a snap lock punch, raise tab faces on the outside of the panel 1/4" from the trimmed edge, 6" apart. Lock the panel into the previous course, and center nail the siding through the 3/16" hole drilled earlier. (Center nailing controls the direction of the panel???s expansion and contraction.)

Lock the panel into place.

Installing over a window or opening

Cut the panel to fit over the window by measuring from the locking tab of the previous row to the bottom of the receiving pocket. Add 1/8" to this measurement. Turn the panel over and, using this measurement, measure from the bottom of the return leg. Cut the panel to this dimension.

Install the cut panel by positioning the panel over the window

and into the receiving pocket. Lock the cut panel into the previous course by pushing in and up. The cut edge should be 1/4"

below the top of the receiving pocket.

Finishing the top course

See instructions on page 65.

Installing Cedar Impressions Mitered Cornerpost

Install the siding on both sides of the wall before you install the cornerpost. Space the siding 3" from the edge of the corner. The corners are designed to fit over the panels that are used to start a new course. If you have followed the A + B cut pattern, the mitered cornerpost will fit easily over the panels. Lock the first corner over the siding, making sure it also locks into the starter strip. The top of the corner must be in line with the top of the panel. Nail the corner through the top two nail slots.

The right-side corner gap has cut marks at 1/8" increments; they allow you to fit the corner to the different panel heights you may encounter as you finish a course. Trim the corner gap as needed to fit the panel.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

D7" Straight Edge Rough-Split Shakes

Panel Spacing at Different Temperatures

See pages 94 and 95.

NOTE: Do not drive center-pin nails tight. Leave 1/8"???1/16" between the nail head and the panel to allow the panel to move freely during normal expansion and contraction.

First course

Strike a level line around the house and install Cedar Impressions Metal Starter.

If you plan to use Cedar Impressions Mitered Cornerpost, make sure the starter strip is installed to the edge of the corner.

An alternative method of starting Cedar Impressions is to use J-channel in place of starter strip to receive the bottom edge of the panel.

If you are planning to use mitered corners, you MUST use an

A + B cut pattern to start each course. This pattern ensures proper fit into mitered corners.

Cut the end of the top course of the panel at indicator ???A??? which is located above the nail slots.

quick reference nail mark indicators

PRO TIP: When installing Cedar Impressions over foam insulation, extra care needs to be taken to verify that adequate space is left between all nail heads and the panel.

Starting on the right side of the wall, hook the bottom locking leg of the panel into the starter strip and slide the panel into the cornerpost or receiving channel. Leave 1/4" space between the panel and the corner for expansion. If you are planning to install the Mitered Cornerpost, space the panel 3" from the corner.

Fasten the panel to the wall by first nailing through the round center hole in the nailing hem at the top of the panel. Continue nailing the panel with 5 nails: one in the right-end nail slot and one at each of the QuickReference??? Nail Mark Indicators. Leave 1/8" to 1/16" between the nail heads and the panel to allow freedom of movement during normal expansion and contraction.

Install the next panel by positioning it below the starter strip and next to the first panel. Push in and up to lock the panel into the starter strip and the side tabs of the first panel, as shown. Space the second panel according to the panel temperature at the corresponding temperature indicator lines.

Nail the panel into position starting with the round center hole and then placing the next nail in the right-end nail slot (which overlaps the previous panel???s left-end slot) so that the nail goes through both panels??? nail slots simultaneously. Continue nailing the rest of the panel as described above.

Continue to install remaining panels of first course as described above.

When a window or doorway breaks a course, continue the application as if the opening were not there.

drill 3/16" diameter hole at midpoint of remaining panel

???B???

PRO TIP: When installing Cedar Impressions over foam insulation, extra care needs to be taken to verify that adequate space is left between all nail heads and the panel.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Second course

Cut off the right side of the D7 shakes at indicator ???B,??? which is located above the nail slots, cutting straight through the panel. Drill a 3/16" hole in the center of the nail hem and nail the siding through this hole to control the direction of expansion and contraction. Another option is to nail each end of a nail slot located at the center of the panel.

Starting on the right side of the wall, hook the bottom locking leg of the panel into the previous course and slide the panel into the cornerpost or receiving channel. Leave 1/4" space between the panel and the corner for expansion.

Set the spacing of the remaining panels using the PanelThermometer and temperature indicator lines.

Continue to stagger the panel courses, alternating each time to ensure a random shingle pattern up the wall.

bottom of locking tab

Installing under a window or opening

Install Cedar Impressions undersill trim. Cut the panel to fit under the window. Drill a 3/16" hole in the upper center of the panel. Using a snap lock punch, raise tab faces on the outside of the panel 1/4" from the trimmed edge, 6" apart. Lock the panel into the previous course, and center nail the siding through the 3/16" hole drilled earlier. (Center nailing controls the direction of the panel???s expansion and contraction.)

Lock the panel into place.

Installing over a window or opening

Cut the panel to fit over the window by measuring from the locking tab of the previous row to the bottom of the receiving pocket. Add 1/8" to this measurement. Turn the panel over and, using this measurement, measure from the bottom of the return leg.

Cut the panel to this dimension. Install the cut panel by positioning the panel over the window and into the receiving pocket. Lock the cut panel into the previous course by pushing in and up. The cut edge should be 1/4" below the top of the receiving pocket.

Finishing the top course

See instructions on page 65.

Installing Cedar Impressions Mitered Cornerpost

If you are planning to install Mitered Cornerposts, space the siding panel 3" from the edge of the corner. Lock the first corner over the siding, making sure it also locks into the starter strip.

Nail the corner through the top two nail slots.

NOTE: We recommend that your complete the first wall before installing the cornerpost. Then install the cornerpost as you install the courses of the second, adjacent wall.

D7" Staggered Perfection Shingles

Panel Spacing at Different Temperatures

See pages 94 and 95.

Note: Do not drive center-pin nails tight. Leave 1/8"???1/16" between the nail head and the panel to allow the panel to move freely during normal expansion and contraction.

First course

If you are planning to use mitered corners, you MUST use an A + B cut pattern to start each course. This pattern ensures proper fit into mitered corners.

Strike a level line around the house and install Cedar Impressions Metal Starter. If you plan to use Cedar Impressions Mitered Cornerpost, make sure the starter strip is installed to the edge of the corner. An alternative method of starting Cedar Impressions is to use J-channel in place of starter strip to receive the bottom edge of the panel.

Cut off the end of the top course of the panel at indicator ???A,??? which is located above the nail slots.

bottom of locking tab

cornice receiver

1/4"

cornice molding

1/4"

Cedar Impressions panel

trim as needed to fit corner

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Starting on the right side of the wall, hook the bottom locking leg of the panel into the previous course and slide the panel into the cornerpost or receiving channel. Leave 1/4" space between the panel and the corner for expansion.

Set the spacing of the remaining panels using the PanelThermometer and temperature indicator lines.

Continue to stagger panel courses, alternating each time to ensure a random shingle pattern up the wall.

Installing under a window or opening

Install Cedar Impressions undersill trim. Cut the panel to fit under the window. Drill a 3/16" hole in the upper center of the panel. Using a snap lock punch, raise tab faces on the outside of the panel 1/4" from the trimmed edge, 6" apart. Lock the panel into the previous course, and center nail the siding through the 3/16" hole drilled earlier. (Center nailing controls the direction of the panel???s expansion and contraction.) Lock the panel into place.

Installing over a window or opening

Cut the panel to fit over the window by measuring from the locking tab of the previous row to the bottom of the receiving pocket. Add 1/8" to this measurement. Turn the panel over and, using

this measurement, measure from the bottom of the return leg.

Cut the panel to this dimension. Install the cut panel by positioning the panel over the window and into the receiving pocket. Lock the cut panel into the previous course by pushing in and up. The cut edge should be 1/4" below the top of the receiving pocket.

Finishing the top course

See instructions on page 65.

Installing Cedar Impressions Mitered Cornerpost

Install the siding on both sides of the wall before you install the cornerpost. Space the siding 3" from the edge of the corner. The corners are designed to fit over the panels that are used to start a new course. If you have followed the A + B cut pattern, the mitered cornerpost will fit easily over the panel. Lock the first corner over the siding, making sure it also locks into the starter strip. The top of the corner must be in line with the top of the panel. Nail the corner through the top two nail slots.

The right-side corner gap has cut marks at 1/8" increments. They allow you to fit the corner to the different butt heights you may encounter as you finish a course. Trim the corner gap as needed to fit the panel.

105

Note: Many installers use small infrared thermometers to determine panel temperatures.

1/4"

2-5/8"

PRO TIP: When installing Cedar Impressions over foam insulation, extra care needs to be taken to verify that adequate space is left between all nail heads and the panel.

always secure first using center pin hole

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

NOTE: Cedar Impressions Half Round Shingles are installed from left to right.

First course

Strike a level line around the house and install Cedar Impressions Metal Starter (see illustration 1a). An alternative method of starting Half-Rounds is to use J-channel in place of starter strip, to receive the bottom edge of the panel (see illustration 1b). To use this method, the rounded portion of the panel must be removed below the locking leg to create a continuous straight edge.

NOTE: When using a J-channel as a starter, leave 1/4" between the siding panel and pocket.

Remove 2-5/8" from the left side of the upper panel course, leaving a 90?? left side edge.

Starting on the left side of the wall, hook the bottom edge of the panel into the starter strip and slide the panel into the cornerpost or receiving channel. Leave 1/4" space between the panel and the inside wall of the cornerpost for expansion.

Fasten the panel to the wall by first nailing through the round center hole of the nailing hem at the top of the panel. Then fasten the rest of the panel by nailing through the centers of the remaining nail slots a maximum of every 8" to 16" on center. Provide 1/8"

to 1/16" between the nail head and the panel to allow freedom of movement during normal expansion and contraction. Failure to provide this space between the nail head and the panel will cause the panel to buckle. Do not put a nail into the far right slot until the overlapping panel is positioned for installation.

Install the next panel by using a dual motion of hooking into the starter strip and sliding over the previous panel. This will ensure a proper lap.

Position the overlapping panel so that there is 1/8" to 1/4" between the panels, depending on the panel temperature at time of installation. The spacing may appear larger or smaller than the spaces between the shingles on the panel. This is normal and necessary in order to allow for expansion and contraction.

Nail in the center of the far left slot of the overlapping panel.

Continue to install the remaining panels of the first course as described above.

When a window or doorway breaks a course, continue the application as if the opening were not there.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

drill 3/16" diameter hole at midpoint of remaining panel

13-1/4"

side locking tabs

Second course

Remove 13-1/4" of the left side measured from the upper panel, cutting straight through the lower panel course. (Note the small mark on the face of the panel.) Drill a 3/16" hole in the center of the nail hem and nail the siding through this hole to control the direction of expansion and contraction.

NOTE: The 13-1/4" spacing provides the farthest separation of overlapping courses.

For easier application of complete panels, 1/4" vertical lines have been added to the top edge of the nail flange for quick initial alignment. Simply align the right edge of the upper panel with one of the vertical alignment marks on the lower course. However, always use the temperature indicator marks on the right side of the upper panels for final alignment.

Cedar Impressions Half-Rounds may also be installed by sliding the right panel up while ensuring the side lock tabs engage with the flange of the left panel. This method is useful when installing panels into cornerposts and J-channel around windows and doors.

Continue to stagger the panel courses, alternating each time to ensure a random shingle pattern up the wall.

Installing under a window or opening

Install Cedar Impressions undersill trim. Cut the panel to fit under the window. Drill a 3/16" hole in the upper center of the panel. Using a snap lock punch, raise tab faces on the outside of the panel 1/4" from the trimmed edge, 6" apart. Lock the panel into the previous course, and center nail the siding through the 3/16" hole drilled earlier. (Center nailing controls the direction of the panel???s expansion and contraction.) Lock the panel into place.

Installing over a window or opening

To install siding over a window, measure from the lock tab of the course below the window top to the top of the window. Add 3/4". Cut the panel to this dimension. This will allow the panel to be lowered down far enough to engage the locking tabs of the lower panel. After it is positioned into the locked position, the cut edge will still be 1/4" below the top of the J-channel.

Finishing the top course

See instructions on page 65.

gable height

5-1/2"

top of gap

5-1/2"

cut remove

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Half-Round Shingles in Gable Ends

NOTE: The following instructions focus on a gable installation. They also are geared towards an enclosed gable, started with a J-channel. The Half-Round can also be started with starter strip. This is an example only!

Installing receiving channels

Frame the border area with 3/4" J-channel. Nail in place loosely. Miter joints accordingly.

NOTE: You also can use 3-1/2" or 5" lineals to frame gable ends and gable base. For instructions on cutting lineals for peaks, see ???Gable Trim??? on page 67.

Cut enough J-channel to span the base of the gable; then secure it in place.

NOTE: The instructions below show how to create a gable installation with a complete, centered Half-Round at the peak.

Making the starter course

Gable installations properly terminate with a single round at the peak. To create this effect, you usually have to adjust the height of the starter course.

To determine the height of the starter course, calculate the number of rows required to complete the gable.

Use the following formula:

Gable height (inches) ?? 12.5 (face exposure) = courses required

NOTE: Gable height is measured from inside the horizontal receiving channel to the peak (allowing 1/4" at top and bottom for expansion).

For example, with a 68" gable height, the calculations would be 68 ?? 12.5" = 5 with a remainder of 0.44. This means you would need 5 full courses plus 0.44 x 12.5" (face exposure of panel) = 5.5" measured from the top edge of the gap on the upper course (illustrated). This is the visible height for your starter course.

The visible height is the vertical dimension of the panel you???ll see below the first full row of rounds.

Once you???ve determined the visible height of the starter course, mark this dimension on a Half-Round Shingle panel. Measure from the top of the gap on the upper course (illustrated). Draw a cutting line the entire length of panel.

Cut and use the top section, which contains the locks, as your starter course. Cut enough panels to span the base of the gable.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

9-3/8"

5-1/2"

9-3/8"

plumb line

Hanging the starter course

To end up with a single ???round??? centered at the peak of the gable, you must properly locate the first starter panel.

Begin by marking a vertical plumb line from the peak.

Then measure and mark the finished height line. In our example, using a starter course with a 5-1/2" visible height, the finished height is 9-3/8".

With your ruler inserted into the pocket of the lower J-channel, mark a line on the substrate equal to the finished height (remember to allow 1/4" for expansion). Repeat at several points along the gable base. Use these marks to strike a horizontal level line that will guide the nailing of the starter course.

The point where the plumb line and the horizontal level line intersect marks the starting point for hanging the first starter course panel (if the first starter panel intersects the plumb line).

Determine whether you will center a ???scallop??? or a ???V??? at the starting point. This decision is based on the number of courses required to complete the gable.

The rule of thumb is:

Center an upper scallop if the initial calculations had less than 0.5 courses remaining (0.44 in our example).

Center the gap or ???V??? of the upper course if more than 0.5 courses remained. (In our example we require 5.44 courses, so we would center on a scallop.)

More than one panel will probably be required to reach the plumb line. Measure from the plumb line into the pocket receiving channel (leaving 1/4" for expansion) as illustrated at left.

plumb line

152" 8"

24???

length of first panel

second alignment mark

line represents the bottom of the first full course of scallops

length of first panel

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

If you require an odd number of courses (i.e. five full courses plus starting course), subtract 8" from the distance from the plumb line to the left receiving pocket (remember to allow 1/4" for expansion).

If you require an even number of courses (i.e. 6 full courses plus starting course), subtract 18-1/2" from the dimension.

NOTE: The 8" and 18-1/2" dimensions ensure having a full centered scallop at the topmost part of the gable.

For example: If the measurement required to the plumb line (minus 8" for an odd number of full courses) is 152", then 152"?? 32" = 4 full panels plus 0.75% of one panel or 24" measured from the edge of the texture on the right side (temperature indicator side).

Create a cutting guide as described earlier for gable applications and trim the first panel (for this example) at 24". Continue to hang the remaining starter course strips, remembering to center nail first.

Installing first full panel

It is important to stagger the panels, as described in this section. The easiest way to determine the length of panel required is to measure from the alignment line on the nail flange of the starter panel to the edge of the roof slope (see illustration).

Using this measurement, drill a hole centered in the remaining nail flange as described earlier. Lock the first full exposure panel to the starter course after trimming for roof slope.

After locking panel in place, center pin the panel.

Lapping remaining panels

The remaining panels to be installed must be lapped in accordance with the current temperature.

Repeat this process for the entire course.

At the end of each course, trim panels to the gable angle. Be sure to allow for expansion at the J-channels.

Installing the last round

When you reach the peak, trim the last round to the desired height by removing the locks. Then face nail to the substrate, using a color-matched finishing nail.

Installing Cedar Impressions on

Non-vertical Walls

Cedar Impressions must never be used as a roofing material. However, the panels can be used on non-vertical applications that meet the following conditions:

???The non-vertical wall must be decorative and not functional.

???The non-vertical wall must not be greater than 20?? off the vertical (no less than a 70?? angle).

???The top of the wall cannot be higher than 30' above grade. Because of different wind-load requirements, your local building code may stipulate a lower height. Use the lesser of the two heights.

Before you install Cedar Impressions on a non-vertical wall, install a non-binding, self-adhering underlayment or waterproofing membrane. Cap the uppermost edge of the top course of siding to prevent water from getting behind the siding. Flash all accessories to shed water away from the substrate. Siding alone is not meant to be a watertight barrier.

Cedar Impressions perfection shingle or half-round shingle with lower round removed

5" lineal

1/4"

flashing

Cedar Impressions 4" metal starter strip

dual undersill trim

hand-punched horizontal siding (locking area has been removed); siding panel locks into dual undersill trim

Cedar Impressions panel is inserted into the pocket of the lineal, making sure to leave 1/4" for downward movement

butt dual undersill trim upward against bottom of flashing

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

cut away and discard

hand punch slots

center nail in slot of Cedar Impressions metal starter

final assembly

Starting Cedar Impressions Over

Horizontal Siding

NOTE: Half-Round Shingles are shown, but this method also works for Perfection Shingles.

Cut away the nail flange and discard.

Hand punch nail slots into the panel face and secure the panel.

Secure Cedar Impressions 4" Metal Starter after hand punching and securing the siding piece.

NOTE: Only the Metal Starter may be used with Cedar Impressions.

Lock the Cedar Impressions panels into the starter strip and secure it.

cam clip

snap rivet

roof snake bar

wonder bar

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Replacing a Damaged Cedar Impressions Panel with the Repair Kit (Option 1)

Cam clips and snap rivets are included in the kit.

You will also need a hammer, utility knife, chisel, and ???wonder bar??? or ???roof snake bar.???

Removing the damaged panel

Cut a large rectangle out of the damaged panel. Cut or chisel through the sides of the panel and remove the lower half.

Pry the nails out of the nail hem of the damaged panel.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

locate lock tab with chisel tip and remove

Replacing a Damaged Cedar Impressions

Panel (Option 2)

You will need a hammer, wood chisel, and hacksaw or utility knife.

Use a wood chisel to remove the lock tabs on the top side of the damaged panel. Lock tabs can be located by using the chisel to slightly lift the panel locked into the upper portion of the damaged panel.

After locating the lock tabs, place the bevel of the chisel down against the face of the damaged panel; use a hammer and the chisel to knock off the lock tabs of the damaged panel. Then remove the nails on the damaged panel, and pull the panel down and remove it.

On the replacement panel, use a hacksaw or utility knife to cut the lock tabs to half their original length. Slide the replacement panel back into the position of the removed damaged panel.

Use the hammer handle to put pressure against the bottom butt of the replacement panel to force pressure upward enough that the replacement panel will engage with the panel above.

Drill a nail hole in the center of the top portion of the replacement panel. Then use a colored trim nail to control the direction of expansion of the replacement.

NOTE: While this method provides an aesthetically acceptable replacement, it does not actually secure the panel to the wall. The only way to secure a replacement panel with nails is to remove the siding from the top of the wall down until the damaged panel can be removed.

Cedar Impressions panel (upper course)

colored trim nail butt leg of upper Cedar

Impressions panel Cedar Impressions panel (lower course)

center pin mark

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Northwoods S7" and S9" Shakes

Overview

The installation of a Northwoods Shakes or Shingles panel is unique in that the lap joint is hidden in the ribs between the shake or shingle pattern. Positioning the laps in the rib area requires that special installation procedures be followed to maintain product performance and aesthetics.

Panels must be installed from right to left. The left panel will overlap the right panel.

Factory laps

All lap joints are cut at a predetermined point on the panel during the manufacturing process. All male laps must be factory cut. Female laps may be field cut using the gap. However, do not cut along the edge of the gap; leave 3/16" of the gap for the overlap.

NOTE: Do not drive center-pin nails tight. Leave 1/8"???1/16" between the nail head and the panel to allow the panel to move freely during normal expansion and contraction.

Center pinning

Vinyl siding expands and contracts as the temperature of the panel changes. To maintain the proper rib width at the lap joint, you will have to limit the movement of the panels. To do this, you must center pin each panel. Center pinning prevents the rib width at

the lap joint from becoming too wide or too narrow.

Center pin each panel regardless of length

Install the siding according to one of the following methods, depending on whether the substrate is or is not fully nailable.

NOTE: The siding must be applied over a rigid sheathing that provides a smooth, flat surface or an underlayment (such as wood, wood composition, rigid foam or fiber sheathing) that is no more than 1" thick. Do not apply siding directly to studs. See pages 21 to 26 for additional information about proper sheathing and substrates.

Lock the right side panel into place on the starter strip. Allow room for expansion and contraction in all accessory pockets:

???1/4" if the ambient temperature is above 40?? F.

???3/8" if the ambient temperature is below 40?? F.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

3/16"

temperature marks

Locate the mark at the center of the panel. Use the nailing slot closest to this mark. Center pin the panel in this location using one of the following options:

1.Install a nail on both ends of the same nail slot.

2.Drill a 3/16" diameter hole through the nail hem and substrate, and place a single fastener through this newly

drilled hole.

Position nails in the center of the remaining slots, 16" apart. Leave adequate room between the fastener head and the nail flange for expansion and contraction (approximately 1/16" to 1/8").

Do not hard nail these fasteners.

30?? 65?? 100??

2' min. offset

Install the next panel to the left of the installed panel. Lap this panel over the installed panel, positioning the right edge of the panel to the appropriate temperature mark, which is located in the factory notch area.

If the ambient temperature is less than 45??F, lap the panel to the first (30??) mark.

If the ambient temperature is between 45??F to 80??F, lap the panel to the second (65??) mark.

If the ambient temperature is greater than 80??F, lap the panel to the third (100??) mark.

Fasten the panel according to the procedure described earlier.

Continue the first course of siding, remembering to center pin every panel.

Start the next course of siding from the right side, repeating the earlier steps. Offset the laps from course to course a minimum of 2 feet.

3"

1-1/4"

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Installing CedarBoards Insulated Siding

CedarBoards Insulated Siding will help even out wall surfaces. However, to minimize extremes in the peaks and valleys of uneven walls, you may have to repair the underlayment. Make sure

the substrate is smooth, flat, and weathertight. If the surface is significantly uneven, apply 1/4" (minimum) foam sheathing before installing CedarBoards Siding. If the wall surface is smooth, use standard underlayment practices.

Horizontal Siding

The key to creating a visually attractive installation is to lap away from areas where people normally walk or gather.

For example, on the front wall, work from the corners to the entrance door (so overlaps face away from door).

On side walls, work from the rear corners toward the front. This approach minimizes the effect of lapping and produces the best appearance. Keep lap appearance in mind throughout installation.

Starter strips

Insulated siding is thicker than hollow vinyl siding. To accom- modate the 1-1/4" thickness, we recommend that you use the CedarBoards starter strip.

An alternative method of starting CedarBoards is to use 1-1/4" J-Channel in place of starter strip to receive the bottom edge of the panel.

Fastening

Use 2" (minimum) corrosion-resistant nails to penetrate the wood substrate at least 3/4". Drive the nails until there is 1/16" between the nail head and the nail flange.

Center the nail in the slot and drive the nail straight in. Do not drive nails at an angle. Space nails 16" o.c.

STUDfinder Installation

The STUDfinder??? Installation System combines precisely engineered nail slot locations with graphics to create a siding panel that is designed to help ensure quick, accurate and secure installation. The nail slots are positioned 16" on center to allow for alignment with studs, with STUDfinder graphics centered directly under each nail slot.

Locate the first stud and fasten in the center of the nail slot. Ensure that nail penetration is at least 3/4" into framing members to comply with ASTM D4756 (specification for vinyl siding installation). Notice which STUDfinder letter appears below the slot.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

dual

crimp

trim foam

1-1/4" J-channel

nail slots

Go to the next repeat of the letter to find the next stud.

For example, if your first stud is at ???T,??? so will the succeeding studs in 16" o.c. applications (every 10th slot). When installing CedarBoards XL 16'8" panels, the succeeding studs are at every 8th slot.

When you apply the next panel, adjust the overlap, as necessary to line up with studs and repeat the steps above.

NOTE: CedarBoards panels must overlap 1" to 1-1/2". Consequently, the overlapping panels may not use the same letter as your initial panel.

Fitting into trim pieces

Around windows, doors, and other openings, use 1-1/4" Cedar- Boards accessories. When the outside temperature is higher than 40?? F, allow a 1/4" gap between the siding and the trim. When the temperature is less than 40??F, leave a 3/8" gap. For CedarBoards XL, allow a 3/8" gap between the siding and the trim when the outside temperature is above 40??F; 1/2" when the temperature is below 40??F.

Around windows and doors

Because insulated siding is thicker than hollow vinyl siding, windows, doors, and other openings may have to be built out to avoid looking recessed. Use wood shims and either aluminum trim coil or vinyl lineals to build out openings. In some cases, the foam backing in CedarBoards siding will create enough stiffness to span over or under a window without additional support.

If you are using utility trim or dual undersill trim to secure the panel, shim the trim to accommodate the thickness of the siding panel. Remove the top 1" of the foam backing so the top of the panel fits into shimmed trim. Use a snap lock punch to raise tabs every 6" to lock the panels into the trim.

When you cut a siding panel to fit around an opening, use a nail slot punch to create additional nail slots. Fasten through these additional nail slots to secure the panel. Make sure the face of the J-channel or other trim will cover the nail slots.

Under soffit

Secure the last course of siding under the soffit with utility trim, dual undersill trim, or cornice receiver with finish board.

You will have to create tabs or nail slots as described above. We recommend the cornice receiver with finish board, as it provides an attractive look and eliminates the need for shims.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

12"

1/2" foam sheathing

always position topmost nail in topmost full nail slot with vertical applications

12"

1/2" foam sheathing

F-channel

J-channel J-channel

Vertical Siding

NOTE: Never install vinyl siding over open furring strips or studs. Always check with your local building code official. With vertical siding, however, you may have to complete an extra step to provide solid nailing points along the vertical edge of the siding panel. The need for this added step depends on the type of substrate used and the nature of the construction project.

With new construction or remodeling using plywood or wood composite, there are no additional steps. You can nail into plywood and wood composite substrates at any point as long as you do not exceed 12" on center.

In new construction using rigid foam or fiber sheathing, you must install solid wood nailer strips horizontally to studs before applying sheathing. Use 1" x 3" wood furring positioned 12" on center. For further information regarding applying wood furring over stucco, please refer to page 32.

When remodeling over existing wood siding, you must apply rigid foam or fiber sheathing, shimming if necessary to create a level surface. When remodeling over brick, block, stucco or irregular wall surfaces, apply furring strips horizontally to create a level surface; then apply rigid foam or fiber sheathing.

Installing Trim

When installing CedarBoards products, use specially designed 1-1/4" accessories at corners and around windows, doors and other openings.

Top and bottom J-channel

Unlike the preparation for horizontal siding, do not install a starter strip for vertical siding. J-channel is used to frame the top and bottom of the vertical panels.

???Snap a base line 1" above the low part of the house. Apply 1-1/4" J-channel along the top and bottom of the wall to receive the siding panels.

???Install the bottom J-channel, and overlap the J-channels 3/4". To do this, cut out a 1" section of the nailing flange and face return.

???Install inverted J-channel along the top of the wall, under the eave. Leave a 1/4" gap between J-channel and cornerposts. Overlap J-channels 3/4" to allow for expansion.

???For water drainage, drill 1/8" diameter weep holes in the base of the J-Channel no more than 16" apart.

vertical siding

weep holes

J-channelJ-channel

flashing

drip cap

J-channel

1/4" to 3/16"

topmost nail at the top of the topmost full nail slot

center

remaining

nails in the slots

3/8" to 1/2"

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Soffit

If you are going to install soffit, you may want to install the receiving channels for the soffit at this point. The illustrations show alterna- tive approaches for installing siding and soffit receiving channels.

1"

3/4"

Options for transitions

If a wall requires more than one course of vertical siding or Board & Batten or if you are transitioning to another cladding, you can proceed in one of two ways:

???Option 1. Use two lengths of J-channel, back-to-back, at the joint between the two courses (A).

???Option 2. Use a combination of one length of J-channel and one length of drip cap (B).

Installing the siding panels

Plan the panel layout. Correctly installed vertical siding should have a balanced appearance. This means that if you were to draw a vertical line down the center point of a wall, you would have an equal number of panels to the right and left.

If you have to trim panels to fit, the end-most panels should be the same width. To do this, divide the space to be covered by the width of one panel over both ends of the wall. For example, if a wall required 25 full panels plus 10", you will need to rip cut two 5" lengths of panel to create partial panels for the end pieces.

Use 2" (minimum) corrosion-resistant nails to penetrate the wood substrate at least 3/4". Do not drive nails at an angle.

Do not drive nails down tightly. Drive nails until there is 1/16" between nail head and the nail flange.

Always position the top most nail at the top of the top most full nail slot. Center the remaining nails in the slots. Space the nails vertically 12" o.c.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

1/4" gap to cornerpost

3/4" J-channel

snap locks

Panel

Minimum 5/8"

Fitting into trim pieces

Around windows, doors and other openings allow a 1/4" minimum gap between the siding and the trim. If an opening occurs near the lower end of a panel, be sure to allow room for downward expansion as described in the instructions.

Starting and finishing with partial panels

Cut the first of the partial panels.

???Mark the cut line by measuring from the nail hem edge.

???Rip cut the panel. Do not cut off the nail hem.

???Use a snap lock punch to create locking tabs 6" apart along the cut edge. In some cases (if the glue bead is too close from the cut edge), a portion of the foam backer may need to be removed in order to snap lock punch the cut edge.

???Before installing this partial panel into the outside cornerpost, install a piece of 3/4" J-channel inside the 1-1/4" J-channel to receive the partial panel locking tabs. Remember to allow 1/4" gap for expansion/contraction.

???Slide the cut edge of the panel into the J-channel, making sure to engage the snap locks.

???Using a level, make certain this panel is plumb.

???Nail vertically every 12" following the fastening procedure for vertical siding.

???Install the next panel. Lock the panel into the preceding panel, and follow same fastening instructions for succeeding panels.

To finish the first course of the wall, rip cut the panel to size and snap lock punch locking tabs every 6" on the cut edge. Install a piece of 3/4" J-channel inside the 1-1/4" J-channel to receive the cut edge locking tabs.

NOTE: When necessary, cut panels to fit around doors and windows. When marking the cut, remember to allow for expansion. The starting and finishing procedure described above is also used when fitting partial panels around windows and doors.

NOTE: If you start with a full panel, create a starter piece by rip cutting the nail hem from a panel (minimum 5/8???).

nail with fin facing up

push snap leg of band board into cornice receiver

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

Band Board

Installing Band Board

Before you begin, determine where the last course of siding will end. Nail cornice receiver loosely every 8" to 10", with the nailing fin facing up. Keep the cornice receiver straight as it establishes the line for the Band Board.

Install the last course of siding 1/4" below the cornice receiver.

If necessary, trim the top of the siding panel to fit below the cornice receiver. With a nail slot punch, punch nail slots 16" apart, 1/4" from the panel???s upper edge. Nail through the center of the holes for a loose fit between the panel surface and the nail heads.

Cut Band Board to length, allowing for clearance between the Band Board ends and the trim for expansion and contraction. Push the snap leg of the Band Board into the cornice receiver. Nail the Band Board loosely every 10" to 12".

Fitting into trim pieces

The Band Board is designed to fit into CedarBoards J-Channel, Corner and lineal 1-1/4" accessories.

For lengths less than 12', allow 1/4" gap between the ends and the trim at temperatures above 40??F; 3/8" gap at temperatures below 40??F.

For lengths greater than 12', allow 3/8" gap between the ends and the trim at temperatures above 40?? F; 1/2" gap at temperatures below 40?? F.

When using the Band Board in installations with accessories that DO NOT have a 1-1/4" pocket, be sure to allow clearance between the two pieces for expansion. Trim a short section of Band Board to create an end cap for these applications.

Installing siding above Band Board

There are two ways to continue siding above the Band Board:

???For horizontal siding, use a starter strip. Position the starter strip above the Band Board enough to allow the siding return leg to engage the starter strip.

???For vertical siding, use J-channel. Align the nail slots of the J-channel with the nail slots of the Band Board.

NOTE: When nailing a starter strip, avoid pinning the Band Board. The Band Board must be allowed to expand and contract freely.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

2

2-3/4"???3"

3

4

5

Overlapping two pieces of Band Board

Only factory-cut edges can be used create a lap seam. The adhesive begins approximately 2" back from the end of the foam.

For the underside piece, measure back 1-1/2" from the end of the vinyl. Cut back 1-1/2" of foam and remove the bottom portion of the rear return and snap leg. Slip the vinyl edge of the bottom portion of the seam between the foam and the vinyl panel. Slide two pieces together, overlapping them 1-1/4", leaving a 1/4" gap between the foam for expansion.

Creating end caps for Band Board

To create end caps for Band Board:

1.Cut 1/8" off the bottom of a piece of Band Board, leaving a piece that is 7-1/8" wide.

2.Remove the foam from the back of the piece.

3.Then, cut the piece down so that it is 2-3/4" to 3" wide. The nail hem will be either left or right, as the insert can be used for either side.

4.With the nail hem to the side, insert the cut piece between the foam and the Band Board. This will form a tight fit, but it may be necessary to glue or caulk at the point where the Band Board meets the cut piece.

NOTE: Depending upon the corner system you are using, you may have to trim the nail hem to fit.

pop rivet

Trimming Curved Openings

Flexible J-channel simplifies installations around curved objects such as half and full round windows. To install around the top of an arched window, follow these simple steps:

Measure the circumference of the arch, then add 1-1/2" to allow for overlap of the bottom J-channel.

Place the channel along one side of the window, leaving a 3/4" section below the bottom edge of the window sill (shown). Position the first nail at the base of the arch. Drive the nail through the flange, tightly securing the flexible channel.

NOTE: This is an exception to the rule that says don???t fasten vinyl tightly. When installed around curved objects, flexible channel must be nailed tightly.

Place additional nails every 6" along the flange. Again, nail tightly. Be sure the last nail is positioned at the base of the opposite arch.

Using a utility knife, cut through the back of the channel, at the point where it extends beyond the bottom edge of the window sill. Make a second cut perpendicular to the first at the base of the channel face. The length of the cut should equal the length of the extension (shown).

Put a 90?? bend in the channel, then nail the resulting tab under the window (shown).

Repeat at the opposite ends of arch.

To install the bottom J-channel, square cut the corners to overlap the flexible J-channel. Use the same technique described under ???Installing window and door trim??? (page 39). Use pop-rivets to secure corners (shown). Use washers on the inside of the rivets to prevent pull through.

NOTE: Remember to properly flash all windows.

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

1"

Frieze Board

You can create a frieze-board appearance using the 3-1/2" lineals in combination with new construction window starter or J-channel used as a starter.

You will need: 3-1/2" or 5" lineals and new construction window starter or J-channel.

Position the short leg of new construction window starter against the soffit or overhang and nail it in place.

Snap the lineal onto the locking edge of the new construction window starter between the starter and the soffit/overhang, and nail it in place.

Trim 1-1/2" from the return leg of the overlapping lineal. Make a cut 1-1/2" at the 90?? bend of the lineal face and inside (locking) edge. Trim 1-1/2" from the nail flange and receiving channel. Overlap the lineals 1" by fitting the notched lineal over the un-notched lineal.

An alternative to using new construction window starter is to use 1/2" J-channel as a starter. Install the J-channel with the back edge against the soffit or overhang. Then slide the lineal over the J-channel.

Decorative Sunbursts

Sunbursts are not a product. They are an installation technique you can use to create an outstanding decorative finish at major accent areas such as gable ends or over garage door openings. Creating a decorative sunburst isn???t difficult, but it does take patience and attention to detail. If you???re ready for a professional challenge, add a sunburst to your next installation.

NOTE: Because each sunburst installation involves unique dimensions and angles, the following instructions outline the basic technique. You must adapt these instructions to your specific installation.

J-channel

keep nail hem

proper length

third cut

keep butt leg area

CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide

You will need J-channel, starter strip, coil stock and siding. When choosing a siding panel, remember that wider panels install more quickly than narrow panels. In addition, panels with decorative profiles???for example, dutchlap???are impractical for sunburst applications. For best appearance and easiest installation, choose from single exposure or larger face double exposure panels.

In addition to standard installation tools, you???ll need a nail hole punch and a pop rivet gun.

The following instructions assume an installation at a gable end. Refer to the illustrations for each step.

Plumb J-channels back-to-back in the center of the gable.

Cut the nail hem and lock off a siding panel. Put the pieces aside; you???ll need them for the final step.

Measure the distance between the J-channel and the rake. Subtract an allowance for expansion. Cut the panel to this length (???proper length??? in illustration). Trim the panel at the rake end to match the rake angle.

Cut the panel to the correct taper (third cut). This is a critical step, because the ???flaring??? of each panel allows you to create the sunburst???s arch. To create the taper on a single exposure panel, start at the channel end of the panel. Mark a point 1-1/2" above the bottom butt. Then, on the opposite end, mark a point where the upper edge of the panel meets the rake. (If using double exposure panels, the mark goes under the center butt. On double exposure panels, the upper exposure is removed completely.) Now scribe a line between both points and cut with a utility

knife or snips.

Pop-rivet the nail hem and lock to the trimmed panel. Using the factory nail hem as a guide, punch slots in the panel. Position the panel and nail it.

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